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Introducing Pale di San Martino & Val di Fiemme
Whizzing east on the Brenner motorway (A22) brings you up against the Pale di San Martino (elevation 1467m), a luminous group of Dolomite mountains. The mountains are embraced by the Parco Naturale Paneveggio-Pale di San Martino (0439 76 88 59; parcopan.org; Via Laghetto, San Martino), home to roe deer, chamois, marmots, wildfowl and birds of prey such as the golden eagle. At the park’s impressive headquarters in the 1853-built Villa Welsperg (9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm) in Val Canali, suspended aquariums illustrate the park’s water life and there are exhibitions dedicated to the flora and fauna. To get to the villa, follow the southbound S50 from San Martino di Castrozza for 14km and at the village of Fiera di Primiero bear east along a narrow road for a couple of kilometres. After the hamlet of Tonadico, bear left (north) to the villa.
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At the park’s feet huddles San Martino di Castrozza, a small but popular Trentino skiing resort and walking spot. Equally appealing, and offering more facilities, is Cavalese (population 3600; elevation 1000m), a small town wedged in the floor of the Val di Fiemme from where skiers take a cable car up to the Cermis ski area (2229m) and beyond. The two are part of the extensive Superski Dolomiti region. In summer, a chairlift and cable car from San Martino whisks walkers to the Rifugio Rosetta (2600m), from where several trails (some easy, some requiring mountaineering skills) can be picked up.
Cavalese’s tourist office (0462 24 11 11; www.aptfiemme.tn.it; Via Bronzetti 60; 9am-noon & 3.30-7pm Mon-Sat) and San Martino tourist office (0439 76 88 67; www.sanmartino.com; Via Passo Rolle 165; 9am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun) both act as contact points for local Alpine guide groups, which organise, among other things, mountaineering ascents on Pale di San Martino, Cima della Madonna and Sass Maor, a 120km-long high-altitude skiing excursion.
Off the mountain, modern art is strikingly displayed at the Centro Arte Contemporanea Cavalese (0462 23 54 16; www.artecavalese.it; Palazzo Firmian, Piazzetta Rizzoli 1; admission free; 3.30-7.30pm Fri-Sun).
There are plenty of places to eat and sleep in the area. Calvase in particular has a couple of jewels.
Hotel Garni Laurino (0462 34 01 51; www.hotelgarnilaurino.it; Via Antoniazzi 14; d €60-96) has been exquisitely decorated with floral fabrics and timber furniture. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the valley. The 17th-century hotel is a short walk from the village centre.
El Molin (0462 34 00 74; Piazza Battisti 11; upstairs mains €8-15, downstairs mains €18-30; seasonal, hours vary) in the village is literally housed in an old mill; at street level you can sit at small tables on high stools and dine on delicious fish, meat and pasta dishes, or just unwind over a glass of wine. Downstairs, next to the old water wheels, it’s a wonderland of stone nooks and crannies, candlelight and chef Alessandro Gilmozzi’s incomparable cooking.
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
