Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore

Lonely Planet review

This mighty church, built mainly in the 12th century in honour of the city's patron saint, is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture. Look out for remarkable frescoes, the magnificent rose window depicting the Wheel of Fortune, and the interior's pièce de résistance - Mantegna's Maestà della Vergine (The Majesty of the Virgin Mary), above the high altar.

Inside you pass by the graceful cloister into the church proper. It is a feast for the eyes, with an array of striking frescoes still in place - they range from the 12th to the 15th century. Approach those on the right after the steps that lead past the crypt and have a close look. They are festooned with graffiti, some dating as far back as 1390 and one to…1998! Down in the crypt the robed remains of St Zeno are eerily lit up in his transparent sarcophagus. Artistically, the highlight is Mantegna's Maestà della vergine (The Majesty of the Virgin Mary), above the high altar.