Things to do in The Veneto
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Il Papiro
A bright, spacious stationer's, the Florentine chain store Il Papiro (with three branches in Venice) doesn't pretend to compete with the handful of traditional marbled-paper shops around town. But it does offer everything from elegant envelopes to letter openers and quills.
reviewed
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Al Vapore
The single best place for a consistent programme of jazz, blues and other music is this spot in Marghera, on the mainland. Concerts start at 21:30 and finish at midnight, generally on Friday and Saturday. On other nights you're as likely to hear ethno-chill-lounge DJ mixes.
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Trattoria da Ignazio
Dapper waiters serve simply prepared grilled lagoon fish and pasta made in-house (‘of course’) with a proud flourish, on tables bedecked with yellow linens and orchids. On sunny days and warm nights the neighbourhood converges beneath the garden grape arbour.
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Bac Art Studio
This studio has paintings, aquatints and engravings signed by two local artists, Cadore and Paolo Baruffaldi, that make fine gifts. Cadore concentrates his commercial efforts on Venetian scenes, while Baruffaldi depicts masked people. Other artists are thrown into the mix.
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Teatro Fondamenta Nuove
Expect the unexpected in Cannaregio’s experimental corner: dances inspired by water and arithmetic, freeform jazz and improvised electronica, British performance art in Italian, and a steady stream of acclaimed artists from Brazil to Finland playing to a full house of 200.
reviewed
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Linea Arte Vetro
Mounds of flaming orange beads and shelves of octopus-tentacle glass rings keep DIY designers and bargain shoppers enthralled at this collective of emerging Murano glass artists. Prices like these are how Murano glass collections begin: beads start at €30 and rings at €7.
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Enoteca Ai Artisti
Heart-warming pasta and inspired cheeses are paired with exceptional wines (by the glass) by your oenophile hosts. Pavement tables for two make for great people-watching, but book indoor tables for groups.
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Corte Farina
Argentina meets Verona at this popular pizzeria, which also fires up empanadas (savoury meat-filled pastries) in their ovens. Join famished shoppers fresh from the Via Mazzini along the chic banquette, or grab a spot outdoors for street theatre two blocks from the Arena.
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Pitanta
An authentic osteria (pub-restaurant) showing true local pride, from the Vicenza football relics on the wall to the heaping plates of local bigoli (thick wheat pasta) with duck sauce for €6 and a glass of respectable house wine for €0.80.
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Cavatappi
A casual charmer offering cicheti and artisanal cheeses, DOC bubbly by the glass and that rarest of San Marco finds: a tasty sit-down meal under €20. Get the risotto of the day and sheep’s cheese drizzled with Dolomite wildflower honey for dessert.
reviewed
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Gelateria San Stae
Simple flavours are anything but at San Stae, where signature ingredients cover Venetian trade routes from Piedmont (Piemonte) hazelnut to Madagascar vanilla. Happiness is in hand with a €1 vanilla cone, but heaven is €2 for a double with local pistachio.
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Bagolo
Creaky wood floors and mood lighting indoors, and candlelit tables outside on the campo, add romance from another era to leisurely happy hours on this picturesque square, with cicheti, cocktails and occasional live-music acts.
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Osteria Ai Quatro Feri
Seafood only is the deal here. Tuna is a house speciality, but you can also tuck into swordfish at your cosy (sometimes a little too cosy) oak table. Consider the antipasti instead of pasta primi; there's also a good mixed grill of vegetables or seafood salad.
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Da Tiziano
Keeping it low-key on the Lido, this local hangout serves decent pizza at fair prices, plus respectable cicheti to a regular happy-hour crowd. If movie stars drop by, that can’t be helped – this is the handiest pizzeria to the Palazzo della Mostra del Cinema.
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Toffolo Gallery
Classic gold-leafed winged goblets and mind-boggling miniatures are the trademarks of this Murano glass-blower, but you’ll also find some dramatic departures: chiselled cobalt-blue vases, glossy black candlesticks that look like Dubai minarets, and highly hypnotic pendants.
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Tomba di Giulietta
Morbid romantics seek out the Tomba di Giulietta, a cloister featuring a red marble coffin long used as a drinking trough, a motley collection of 1st-century Roman amphorae and, upstairs, some frescoes of minor interest, mostly from the 16th century.
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Berengo
Here is a purveyor of glass that has long abandoned any pretence of functionality in its products. This is glass for art's sake and the company's master glass-makers work to designs by contemporary artists, such as Turin-born Riccardo Licata, long a lagoon resident.
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Ca’ Derton da Nino
You can enjoy a leisurely meal of suckling pig with roast potatoes or tagliatelle with partridge sauce at the antique-filled, family-run Ca’ Derton da Nino. Lulled by Asolo’s charms and hearty fare, you may decide to spend the night.
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Tea Room Beatrice
After a long day’s sightseeing, Beatrice offers a welcome alternative to espresso bolted at a bar. Rainy days are good for iron pots of green tea and almond cake in the Japanese-themed tearoom, and sunny days are meant for iced drinks and salty pistachios on the patio.
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Rococó
It's a reasonable trek from the city centre, but classic Rococó is a club worth cruising to. It has a touch of decorative Oriental luxury and the music ranges from hip-hop and R&B nights to world music and soul. Wash it all down with colourful cocktails.
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La Cantina
Talk about slow food: grab a stool and local Morgana beer while you await seasonal bruschette made to order and hearty bean soups. Seafood platters require larger appetites and deeper pockets – the market price varies, so ask today’s rate – but mullet with roast potatoes, scampi crudi (sweet prawn Venetian-style sushi) and corn-breaded fried anchovies are worthy investments.
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Loggia del Consiglio
Occupying the north side of Piazza dei Signori is the 15th-century Loggia del Consiglio, the former city council building and Verona's finest Renaissance structure. It is attached to the Palazzo degli Scaligeri, once the main residence of the Della Scala clan.
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Manuela Calzature
This is a small family business with a broad if somewhat conservative range of shoes, including more expensive footwear that the family makes under its own name. Don't judge it by the cheap junk outside, and dare to penetrate inside this musty, narrow store.
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Impronta Café
Join Venice’s value-minded jet set for prosecco and bargain polenta-salami combos, surrounded by witty architectural diagrams of cooking pots. Arrive by 6.30 to take advantage of Milan-style aperitivi, where access to an appetizer buffet is free with drink purchases.
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