Things to do in Tyrrhenian Coast
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Al Porticciolo
If the indoor dining room looks empty, it’s because everyone’s piled out on the ample waterfront terrace, one of the prettiest in town. The pizzas are excellent, and fixed-price menus start at €18.
reviewed
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Castelbuono Castle
In 1316, Francesco I Ventimiglia built the absolutely enormous Castelbuono Castle that gave the town its name (from castrum boni), and which soars above the golden patchwork of houses. The castle is divided into areas that cover archaeology, and the castle's and Castelbuono's history (with religious artefacts and jewellery), and several rooms are dedicated to modern and contemporary art exhibitions; sadly, none of the paintings are marked or explained.
The castle is supposed to be haunted by Queen Constance Chiaramonte, who it is said runs along the corridors, regular as clockwork, every first Tuesday of the month. Right in the heart of the castle is the extraordinary Cap…
reviewed
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Milazzo Castle
The strategic position of Milazzo is obvious from the enormous Milazzo Castle, built by Frederick II in 1239 and added to by Charles V Aragon. It constitutes the nucleus of the old town and was originally the site of a Greek acropolis, then that of an Arab-Norman citadel. At one time the whole of Milazzo fitted within its huge walls, which command great views of the bay and the Aeolians.
The castle contains the city's Duomo Vecchio (old cathedral) and the ruins of the Palazzo dei Giurati (the old town hall). It is a lovely site to clamber around, full of flowers and crumbling structures. To reach the castle climb the Salita Castello, which rises up through the atmospheric…
reviewed
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Santuario di Gibilmanna
While you're in town, you will probably meet a few visitors who have come on a pilgrimage to pray at the elaborately decorated baroque Santuario di Gibilmanna, a shrine to the Virgin Mary. During the shrine's coronation on 17 August 1760 (a day which also marked the official consecration of the church), the Virgin is supposed to have shown signs of life, namely restoring sight to two blind worshippers and speech to a mute.
The miracle was later confirmed by the Vatican and consequently, the church is one of Sicily's most important shrines.
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Capo Milazzo
If you have a car, take a drive along the Strada Panoramica around Cape Milazzo; the rugged coastline is beautifully unspoilt. Alternatively you can arrange a boat trip (ask at the tourist office) around the rocky cape to Baia del Tonno on the western side of the isthmus. Right at the end of the isthmus is the lighthouse, from where you can make a short walk down to the Santuario Rupestre di San Antonio da Padova (signposted from the car park), situated beside the crystal-clear waters.
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Chiesa Madre
At the start of the Imera valley, Polizzi Generosa is a charming town that was given the nomenclature generosa (generous) by Frederick II in the 1230s. The town is a trekking base for the Madonie, and is riddled with churches that are often shrouded in mist. One sight worth visiting is the Chiesa Madre, with a Flemish depiction of the Madonna and Child with Angels from the early 16th century, and a Madonna of the Rosary by Guiseppe Salerno.
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Cathedral
Cefalù’s cathedral is the final jewel in the Arab-Norman crown alongside the Cappella Palatina and Monreale. Inside, a towering figure of Christ Pantocrator is the focal point of the elaborate 12th-century Byzantine mosaics. Framed by the steep cliff, the twin pyramid towers of the cathedral stand out above the magnificent Piazza del Duomo, which swarms with camera-snapping tourists among the pavement cafes and restaurants.
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La Galleria
A new restaurant, café, gallery and bookshop, La Galleria is a lovely space with a big, elegant garden and excellent cuisine. Try its antipasto of marinated fish, and for starters go for the risotto with asparagus or the fresh tagliatelle with prawns, cherry tomatoes and crushed pistachio. The mains, which usually consist of grilled fresh fish, are palate-bendingly good. We recommend a glass of sweet Marsala for an ending with style.
reviewed
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Ristorante Petrae Lejum
At this cosy family-run place specialising in mountain cuisine, you can indulge in rare treats such as cinghiale affumicato (smoked wild boar), tagliatelle delle Madonie (pasta with fennel, almonds, fresh sardines, raisins, tomato sauce and pecorino cheese) or maccheroni alla carrettera ottocentesca (macaroni with parsley, pistachios, hot peppers, garlic and pecorino cheese).
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Trattoria-Pizzeria ‘da Salvatore’
Charismatic Salvatore (who speaks German, French and some English) has run this popular, Slow Food–recommended trattoria in ‘upper’ Petralia for 25 years. The wide-ranging antipasti selection (€9) includes grilled seasonal vegetables and a delicious fresh ricotta frittata (omelette). Everything is prepared in the wood-burning oven, including pizzas (from €4), which are an evening-only treat.
reviewed
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Relais Santa Anastasia
Relais Santa Anastasia is a simply gorgeous 12th-century abbey - superlatives are not enough to describe it. Set among working vineyards, and with an ancient cobbled courtyard straight out of a storybook, the abbey boasts beautiful rooms, exquisite attention to detail, and fabulous food and wine from the vineyards. It is 9km from Castelbuono in the direction of Cefalù.
reviewed
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Sotto Zero Cafè
A very cool waterfront bar, spread out along the steps leading to the beach. Its Buddha Bar–inspired decor is dreamy: seating on low cushions, with the candlelit stairs covered in soft carpets and the sound of the sea lapping below. It’s a great place for aperitivi, cocktails and chatting till late.
reviewed
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Spanish Castle
Milazzo’s main in-town attraction is its enormous Spanish castle It was closed indefinitely for restoration at the time of research; when open, it has guided tours on the hour and is a lovely site to clamber around, full of flowers and crumbling walls with dreamy views of the Aeolians.
reviewed
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Club Malibú ZZ
Cefalù's hottest club and the place where Palermitans often flock in the summer, Malibú is full of youngsters keen on big nights out. With lots of decent DJs and plenty of cocktail swigging, the party really gets heaving in August. The best place to go if you're after a good night's dancing.
reviewed
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Salita Saraceno
An enormous staircase, the Salita Saraceno, winds up through three tiers of city walls in a 30-minute climb to the summit of La Rocca. From here you have wonderful views of the town below. The steps are to the right of the Banco di Sicilia on Piazza Garibaldi. From here the way is clearly signposted.
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La Botte
Although it doesn't have a sexy beachfront location, this eatery just off Corso Ruggero continues to send out good food. It has excellent antipasti and pasta dishes, and its house special, casarecce alla botte (short pasta with a meat sauce), is good if you fancy a change from fish.
reviewed
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Chiesa di Santa Maria di Loreto
The most beautiful church in Petralia Soprana is the 18th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria di Loreto, at the end of Via Loreto, off the main square. Inside is an altarpiece by Gagini and a Madonna by Giacomo Mancini. To the right of the church through an arch is the town's belvedere.
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Al Pescatore
The seafood here is definitely recommended, as is the efficient service (staff members are used to dealing with hordes about to catch boats to the Aeolian Islands). The involtini di pesce spada (swordfish roulade stuffed with breadcrumbs; around €9.25) is delicious.
reviewed
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Museo Mandralisca
Off Piazza del Duomo is the private Museo Mandralisca. The museum has an interesting collection that includes Greek ceramics and Arab pottery, the highlight being the Portrait of an Unknown Man, a Renaissance masterpiece painting by Antonello da Messina.
reviewed
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Museo di Mina Palumbo
The other excellent sight in Castelbuono is the Museo di Mina Palumbo, named after the naturalist Francesco Minà Palumbo. His collection gives an exhaustive insight into the Madonie mountains, and their botany, natural history, minerals and archaeology.
reviewed
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Osteria Magno
The Osteria Magno is an imposing 14th-century mansion that has been heavily renovated over the centuries and today is only open for temporary art exhibitions. If you want to get a look inside at other times, ask for the keys at the tourist office.
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Lo Scoglio Ubriaco
Dine in a five-star setting without shifting your credit card into overdrive at this elegant restaurant with its seaview terrace. Pizzas are served at night, while the whole gamut of pasta, meat and fish choices is available at midday.
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Antica Gelateria del Corso
Antica Gelateria del Corso, is another fine deli, maker of testa di Turco (Turk's head; blancmange with puff pastry in the middle), chocolate-covered almonds and tasty ice cream. All products are handmade and delicious.
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Washington Bar
This very pleasant bar is a great spot to unwind with a drink while you watch the passeggiata go by. The excellent nibbles that accompany drinks only add to the charm. You can also get great gelato here.
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Salamone e Mare
A wonderful restaurant north along the isthmus. Its terrace juts out over the water, giving it attractive views, which are accompanied by a delicious array of seafood, including a lobster speciality.
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