Things to do in Trapani
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Cantina Siciliana
This little trattoria (informal restaurant) is a gastronomic paradise. You'll have to seek it out in the old Jewish ghetto, where scaffolding prevents the alley from collapsing in on itself, but you'll be discovering one of the finest places to eat in the whole of Sicily. It's no wonder it sports the Slow Food Movement badge of approval.
Just taste the sardine in breadcrumbs for starters, a plate of mind-blowing pasta alla Trapanese and the fish platter, followed by a warm cassatella (cream horn stuffed with sweet ricotta) or Italy's most famous muscat, the passito di Pantelleria. The restaurant runs the superb enoteca (wine bar or shop) next door.
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Al Solito Posto
Tucked off at the end of Via Orlandini, this tiny trattoria is another deserved wearer of the Slow Food Movement badge. It's all about fish and seafood here, with an emphasis on the freshest picks of the morning catch. Start with the fish carpaccio (thinly sliced fish) and proceed to the delicious spaghetti con i ricci (spaghetti with sea urchin meat), which is perfectly followed by a tuna steak covered with sweet caramelised onions. If you can fit in a dessert, try the almond parfait or a creamy cannolo.
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Museo Nazionale Pepoli
Adjacent to the Santuario dell’Annunziata, in a former Carmelite monastery, is the Museo Nazionale Pepoli. It houses the collection of Conte Pepoli, who made it his business to salvage much of Trapani’s local arts and crafts, not least the garish coral carvings – once all the rage in Europe before the banks of coral off Trapani were decimated. The museum also has a good collection of Gagini sculptures, silverwork, archaeological artefacts and religious artwork.
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Tavernetta Ai Lumi
Converted from an 18th-century stable block, this tavern is rustic to the core. Exposed brickwork, heavy wooden furniture and huge arches lend the dining room great character, while the outside terrace, in the heart of historic Trapani, is delightful on summer evenings. The menu features plenty of fresh seafood along with superbly prepared local classics such as casarecce al pesto trapanese (pasta with a sauce of tomatoes, toasted almonds and garlic).
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Palazzo Riccio di Morana
Although the narrow network of streets in Trapani's historic centre is Moorish, the city takes most of its character from the fabulous 18th-century baroque of the Spanish period. A catalogue of examples can be found down the pedestrian Via Garibaldi, most notably the Palazzo Riccio di Morana and Palazzo Fardelle Fontana. The best time to walk down here is in the early evening, when the passeggiata (stroll) is in full swing.
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Museo di Preistoria e del Mare
The Museo di Preistoria e del Mare is located at the tip of the promontory in the Spanish fortress Torre di Ligny. It houses a collection of prehistoric artefacts and medieval objects recovered from shipwrecks off the coast. From the top of the tower there are great views over the town. Highlights are Titian's San Francesco con Stigmata (St Francis with Stigmata) and the Pietà by Roberto di Oderiso.
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Colicchia
The granita (flavoured crushed ice) here is the best in Trapani. Many flavours are available, including old favourites such as mandorla (almond), coffee and limone (lemon), but you should also try the seasonal delicacies, such as gelsi (mulberry), which is only eaten in from July to September.
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Chiesa del Purgatorio
Just off the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, south along Via Generale Dom Giglio, is the Chiesa del Purgatorio, which houses the impressive 18th-century Misteri, 20 life-sized wooden effigies depicting the story of Christ’s Passion (used in I Misteri).
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Santuario dell’Annunziata
Trapani’s major sight is the 14th-century Santuario dell’Annunziata, 4km east of the centre. The Cappella della Madonna, behind the high altar, contains the venerated Madonna di Trapani, thought to have been carved by Nino Pisano.
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Taverna Paradiso
This is Trapani’s best restaurant, where Dolce & Gabbana–clad women and bejewelled men gorge themselves on succulent seafood specialities from an encyclopaedic 24-page menu. Reservations are essential, as is donning the glad rags.
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Ignazio Benivegna
An old-timer among Trapani's pasticcerie (pastry shops), this place has been providing tasty cannoli, cassate and other delicious cakes since 1939. It's a bit of a walk down towards the Erice funicular.
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Osteria La Bettolaccia
An unwaveringly authentic, Slow Food–recommended restaurant, this is the perfect place to try cuscus con pesce a zuppa (couscous with mixed seafood in a spicy fish sauce flavoured with tomatoes, garlic and parsley).
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Piazza Mercato di Pesce
There's a great open-air fish market, Piazza Mercato di Pesce, on the northern waterfront. Even if you're not buying seafood, it's a great place to stroll around and take in the sights, smells and sounds.
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Chiesa di Santa Maria del Gesù
The Catalan-Gothic Chiesa di Santa Maria del Gesù houses the exquisite Madonna degli Angeli (Madonna of the Angels), a glazed terracotta statue by Andrea della Robbia.
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Angelino
On the waterfront near the hydrofoil docks, this is a convenient place to pick up Sicilian sweets, snacks, light meals or other provisions before heading off to the islands.
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Chiesa di Sant'Agostino
Further west, on Piazzetta Saturno, is the 14th-century Chiesa di Sant'Agostino, its austerity relieved only by its fine Gothic rose window and portal.
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Amici Miei
On balmy evenings, locals throng the sidewalk tables at this lively pizzeria across from Trapani’s northern waterfront.
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Ristorante da Peppe
Lots of stained glass, steaming pasta and fresh seafood. Try the tuna specialities from May to early July.
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Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
The huge Cattedrale di San Lorenzo has a baroque facade and stuccoed interior.
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Palazzo Senatorio
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