Must-see restaurants in Sicily

  • La Forgia Maurizio

    Vulcano

    Maurizio, owner of this devilishly good restaurant between the port and the volcano, spent 20 winters in Goa, India. Eastern influences sneak into his…

  • Ristorante Ferro

    Palermo

    All clean lines, timber panels and tinted mirrors, intimate, family-run Ferro wouldn't look out of place in London or Sydney. Whether you're savouring a…

  • Trattoria Il Veliero

    Western Sicily

    Just north of the hydrofoil dock, this family-run waterfront eatery is a seafood-lover's fantasy. Chef-owner Peppe Bevilacqua goes to the market daily,…

  • La Medusa

    Syracuse

    This friendly, family-run spot made its name serving delicious couscous, but chef-owner Kamel also knows his way around a fish − the must-try fritto misto…

  • Accursio Radici

    Modica

    In Italian, radici means roots, which is exactly where this polished osteria heads back to. The cheaper offspring of Michelin-starred restaurant Accursio,…

  • L'Officina del Cannolo

    Lipari

    On Lipari's main pedestrian thoroughfare, just down from the ferry port, L'Officina incorporates fresh-caught seafood into appetisers (mussel soup, squid…

  • Locanda Don Serafino

    Ragusa

    Powerhouse chef Vincenzo Candiano steers this softly lit, Michelin-starred darling, evocatively set in a series of rocky caves. Reserve a linen-draped…

  • Pasticceria Fratelli Magrì

    Palermo

    This third-generation pastry shop remains one of Palermo's best. Defy your dentist with made-from-scratch staples like cassata or cannolo, or tuck into…

  • Bar Nettuno

    Western Sicily

    Tucked into the cobbled courtyard at the heart of Scopello, this busy bar has a lovely terrace that really is ideal for savouring late-afternoon drinks or…

  • Trattoria da Papù

    Western Sicily

    Dodge the tourist crowds and duck into this traditional eatery, complete with fish-net-strung walls and B&W action shots of island fishermen working their…

  • Baqqala

    Southeastern Sicily

    Peppe Mezzasalma's pretty, bohemian eatery serves Sicilian classics with thoughtful tweaks. Daily offerings are respectful of the season and market…

  • Cusiritati

    Panarea

    Since 1970, three generations of women from the same family have run this classy, white-linen-clothed spot above the port. Federica, whose grandmother…

  • La Pineta

    Western Sicily

    You couldn't ask for a peachier beach setting. From the entrance of the Foce del Belice nature preserve on Marinella's far eastern edge, a gravel track…

  • Ristorante Majore

    Southeastern Sicily

    The place to buy ham, and indeed to lunch on superb pork, is Ristorante Majore, a much-acclaimed trattoria just off central Piazza Duomo. It's…

  • Al Tramonto

    Pantelleria

    As the name implies, this hillside-hugging restaurant is the perfect place to watch the tramonto (sunset) – but the food here is equally radiant, from…

  • Da Francesco

    Panarea

    Up a short flight of stairs from the port (follow the signs), Da Francesco is a laid-back trattoria with a straightforward fish-focused menu and fine sea…

  • Sutt'a Ràvia

    Cefalù

    Fresh seafood holds centre stage at this cute blue-and-white trattoria near the beachfront, an offshoot of the neighbouring fish market. Order bargain…

  • Agricolab

    Catania

    Small Sicilian farms and producers are showcased at this hip, upbeat cafe-bistro, run by Singaporean Fawn and her Sicilian partner Giuseppe. Tuck into…

  • Gagini

    Palermo

    Expect sharp professionals and serious gastronomes at Gagini's rustic, candlelit tables. In the kitchen are Massimiliano Mandozzi and Elnava De Rosa,…

  • La Cucina dei Colori

    Catania

    Take away or dine in at communal tables at this contemporary ode to seasonal, organic, meat-free nosh. Scan the counters for the daily-changing options,…

  • Le Macine

    Lipari

    This country restaurant in Pianoconte, 4.5km from Lipari Town, comes into its own in summer, when meals are served on the terrace. Seafood and fresh…

  • Le Tre Bocche

    Catania

    Reservations are essential at this Slow Food–recommended restaurant, which even has its own stand at La Pescheria market. The tasting of antipasti is a…

  • I Rizzari

    Southeastern Sicily

    If you're travelling between Catania and Syracuse, book a table (at least two days ahead in summer) at this beach-shack-inspired trattoria, its waterside…

  • Hostaria L'Oste e il Sacrestano

    Mediterranean Coast

    Feast on local meat and freshly caught seafood at this Slow Food favourite just off Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Choose from the à la carte menu of three…

  • Gilberto e Vera

    Lipari

    Still run by the friendly couple who founded it four decades ago (ably assisted by daughter Alessia), this beloved shop sells two dozen varieties of…

  • Lida La Sirenetta

    Western Sicily

    A year-round Sunday-lunch favourite with locals, this large beachfront restaurant really comes into its own in summer when its tables spill outside onto…

  • Bar dell'Amicizia

    Lampedusa

    Ask people where to find the best desserts in Lampedusa and they'll likely point you to the 'Bar of Friendship' – just look for the cute sign depicting…

  • Porto Bello

    Salina

    For some of Santa Marina's best seafood head for this restaurant with a terrace overlooking the harbour, run by the same family since 1978. In low season,…

  • E Pulera

    Lipari

    With its serene garden setting, low lighting, tile-topped tables and exquisite food – from tuna carpaccio with blood oranges and capers for dinner to…

  • Ristoro dello Scoiattolo

    Tyrrhenian Coast

    Perched at 1600m, near the base of the Mufara ski slope, this rustic year-round restaurant is Piano Battaglia's perennial favourite spot to indulge in…

  • La Pinnata del Monsù

    Salina

    With a sunny terrace overlooking the vineyards and the sea at Malfa's southern edge, this relaxed trattoria serves up superbly rendered Sicilian classics…

  • Trattoria di De Fiore

    Catania

    For over 50 years, chef Rosanna (yes, that's her in Jamie Oliver's TV series Jamie Cooks Italy) has been recreating her great-grandmother's recipes,…

  • Toto Passami L'Olio

    Milazzo

    Specialising in locally sourced 'km0' cuisine, this intriguing restaurant serves up creative dishes built around sometimes obscure ingredients, with vegan…

  • Osteria al Canale

    Enna

    Enna foodies know all about this simple village eatery, a 24km drive southeast of Enna. Lorded over by head chef Lillo Serra, its shtick is honest,…

  • 210 Grammi

    Trapani

    What with the giant pasta pictures splashed above the white-tiled open kitchen and the photo-loaded tablet provided alongside printed menus, it's…

  • Tischi Toschi

    Taormina

    With only a handful of tables (book ahead), this generous, Slow Food–acclaimed trattoria offers a level of creativity and attention to detail generally…

  • Osteria Il Grappolo

    Mediterranean Coast

    A friendly neighborhood osteria (casual tavern), Salvatore Ciaccio's 'Grappolo' embraces the Slow Food aesthetic: carefully chosen local ingredients…

  • Eyem Zemen

    Western Sicily

    For a taste of Tunisia, try this delightful hole-in-the-wall in the heart of La Casbah, marked by a bilingual Italian-Arabic sign. Tunisian owner Fatiha…

  • Bisso Bistrot

    Palermo

    Frescoed walls, exposed ceiling beams and reasonably priced appetisers, primi (first courses) and secondi (main courses) greet diners at this swinging,…

  • Ristorante Il Cantuccio

    Noto

    Tucked into the courtyard of a former noble's palace, this inviting restaurant combines familiar Sicilian ingredients in inspired ways. Perennial…