A hidden gem in the courtyard of Palermo’s modern art museum, this bright, informal and artsy cafe features a short menu of dishes like tonno e pesce spada affumicati con mousse di formaggio fresco al finocchietto selvatico (smoked tuna and swordfish with cheese and wild fennel mousse). If the quality-to-price ratio seems surprisingly good, that’s because it’s owned by the same people who run the elegant Osteria dei Vespri across the street.