Things to do in Lipari
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Observatory
Just south of the town is Lipari's observatory, a small place with a big job - monitoring all the volcanic and seismic activity in the Mediterranean. Follow signs south to the Hotel Carasco and Porto delle Gente, which will lead you out to a promontory formed by Monte Giardina and Monte Guardia. From here a track leads through the vineyards to the Observatory with fantastic views across the water to Vulcano.
The route is clearly marked on the Isole Eolie o Lipari 1:25,000 map produced by Litografia Artistica Cartografica.
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Museo Archeologico Eoliano
The fabulous Museo Archeologico Eoliano is one of the very best museums in Sicily, tracing the volcanic and human history of the Aeolian Islands. It is divided into three sections: an archaeological section devoted to artefacts from the Neolithic period and Bronze Age to the Roman era; a classical section with finds from Lipari’s necropolis (including the most complete collection of sensational miniature Greek theatrical masks in the world); and a section on vulcanology and finds from the other islands.
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Cattedrale di San Bartolomeo
You enter the castle via a set of steps that leads up to the 17th-century Cattedrale di San Bartolomeo. It was built to replace the original Norman cathedral, which was destroyed by Barbarossa who, despite his Arab name (Khair-ed-din Barbarossa), was actually an Italian mercenary. The only original element to survive is the 12th-century Benedictine cloister. The interior is hung with chandeliers.
In the northern transept is a silver statue of St Bartholomew (1728) with his flayed skin tucked under his arm.
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Filippino
Having celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2010, Filippino’s is a mainstay of Lipari’s culinary scene, its menu filled with traditional dishes named in Sicilian dialect such as maccarruna i casa alla Filippino (pasta with tomatoes, courgettes, basil, mint, mozzarella and ricotta) and close to 20 delectable desserts. There are separate menus for olive oil, bottled water, grappas (120) and, more conventionally, wine.
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Parco Archeologico Contrada Diana
The only worthwhile sight outside the citadel is the Parco Archeologico Contrada Diana, which has revealed part of the original Greek walls (5th and 4th centuries BC) and Roman houses. At the southwestern end of the park is the necropolis, where the tombstones are still visible in the overgrown grass. The park, alas, is rarely open but all of the important finds are in the museum.
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Le Macine
This Slow Food-awarded restaurant is located outside Lipari just as you enter Pianoconte. Creative Aeolian cooking includes fish in ghiotta sauce: a blend of olive oil, capers, tomatoes, garlic and basil. Lobster-filled ravioli or the fresh grilled swordfish are great too. The presentation is nicely low-key, but the portions could be bigger.
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Bar La Precchia
If you fancy a late-night drink or want to be in the right place for crowd gazing during passeggiata (evening stroll), Bar La Precchia is a local favourite. It has an enormous menu of drinks, from café frappe and fruit milkshakes to cocktails and wine. In summer it's open until 03:00 and often has live music.
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La Formagella
You simply can’t leave the Aeolian Islands without a small pot of capers and a bottle of sweet Malvasia wine. You can get both, along with meats, cheeses and other delicious goodies at La Formagella. Try the house speciality, alerchino di capperi, a pungent mix of capers, garlic, pepper, oil and vinegar.
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Kasbah
Choose the environment that suits you best: the sleek contemporary white banquettes in the interior dining room or the vine-covered, candlelit garden out back. The food is superb, including delicious pizzas and delicacies such as agnello stracotto in umido alla siciliana (stewed lamb with almonds and dates).
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Archaeological Dig
Around the Cattedrale di San Bartolomeo are a couple of other ruined baroque churches, but the real area of interest is the archaeological dig where finds from the Neolithic period to the Roman era have been unearthed. You won't make much sense of what's here without visiting the museum.
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La Cambusa
This single-room, family-run place serves delicious, reasonably priced Aeolian food, from the misto di capricci siciliani (roast peppers, aubergine caponata and vegetables of the day) to the classic fritto misto (fried shrimp and squid).
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Citadel
After Barbarossa rampaged through the town in 1544, murdering most of the citizens, enslaving the women and desecrating the relics of St Bartholomew (charming fellow that he was), the Spaniards rebuilt and fortified Lipari with the citadel.
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La Nassa
Genuine Aeolian cuisine is served in this family-run trattoria away from the main drag. Favourites include fish such as cernia, sarago and dentice, or try the Aeolian sausages, which are a house speciality.
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E Pulera
Filippino’s sister restaurant just west of the centre has a serene garden setting and equally exquisite food. Despite the upmarket ambience, the menu includes some surprisingly affordable choices.
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Diving Center La Gorgonia
Given the crystal-clear waters, snorkelling and scuba diving are also incredibly popular. For details on courses or hiring equipment, contact Diving Center La Gorgonia.
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Gruppo di Navigazione Regina
You can take boat tours to the surrounding islands of Lipari (€20 to €40), or arrange a day trip to hike up Stromboli with Gruppo di Navigazione Regina.
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Bar Pasticceria Subba
Feed your sweet tooth with fabulous pastries at this long-established bakery (since 1930); the pistachio profiteroles with green cream filling are to die for!
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Fratelli Laise
The tempting Fratelli Laise sells fresh fruit and veg and a whole range of wines, sweets, anis (aniseed) biscuits, pâtés, capers and oil.
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La Piazzetta
A lively pizzeria with vine-draped outdoor seating that has served the likes of Audrey Hepburn. It’s off Corso Vittorio Emanuele, behind Pasticceria Subba.
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Il Gabbiano
Most of the town's nightlife is concentrated in and around the Marina Corta, where there are a handful of bars with outdoor seating. Try Il Gabbiano.
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Da Massimo/Dolce Vita
Arrange a day trip to hike up Stromboli with Da Massimo/Dolce Vita.
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Trattoria d'Oro
This is a good small restaurant with fresh seafood dishes. Popular with the locals.
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Da Massimo
You can take excursions from Da Massimo. They also hire boats and dinghies.
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