Things to do in Erice
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Chiesa Madre
Of the several churches and other monuments in this small, quiet town, the Chiesa Madre, just inside Porta Trapani, is probably the most interesting by virtue of its campanile (bell tower) with mullioned windows. Built in 1314, the church had its interior, which has a lovely vaulted ceiling, remodelled in the neo-Gothic style in 1865, but the 15th-century side chapels were conserved.
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Grammatico Maria
This café is run by Maria Grammatico, Sicily's most famous pastry chef. She was even the subject of Mary Taylor Simeti's book Bitter Almonds, a series of recipes and recollections from her childhood, when she learnt her considerable skills from the nuns of Erice. Try the exquisite cannoli in the leafy back garden - they are some of the best you'll taste.
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Museo Civico Antonio Cordici
At the top of Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the heart of the city, and the place where you'll find the Museo Civico Antonio Cordici. The museum houses finds from the town's necropolis, including a 4th-century head of Venus. The other piece worth seeing is an elegant Annunciation by Antonello Gagini.
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Monte San Giuliano
Tucked behind Corso Vittorio Emanuele, this eatery is entered through a crumbling arch that leads onto a cool patio graced with drooping hydrangeas. The terrace has a canopy of green vines, and the pasta, fish and seafood are as delicious as the surroundings.
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La Pentolaccia
This is a smart, atmospheric restaurant inside a former 16th-century monastery. It can get swamped by tour groups but the food is good, with pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines) and other favourites featuring on the menu.
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Castello di Venere
The Norman Castello di Venere was built in the 12th and 13th centuries over the Temple of Venus where all that debauchery was taking place. The castle now houses the town’s most exclusive hotel, Torri Pepoli.
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Antica Pasticceria del Convento
One of the numerous pastry shops in town is Antica Pasticceria del Convento. Try the bellibrutti, dense marzipan concoctions bursting with the fragrance of almonds and lemons.
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Amico Pietro
Erice has a number of fairly good antique shops, one of the best being Amico Pietro, which sells quality ceramics, some lovely lacework and presepi (Nativity figurines).
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Osteria di Venere
This traditional, family-run tavern makes excellent regional food, with special emphasis on grilled meat and fish.
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Torre di Re Federico
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Giardino del Balio
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