Jealously guarded by locals, Enna’s massive Castello di Lombardia is the most obvious physical manifestation of the inward-­looking nature of Sicily’s mountain villages. It is hardly surprising given the waves of invaders who sought to possess this mountain eyrie. This history is perfectly illustrated in the hotchpotch architecture of the cathedral, a catalogue of Graeco-Roman remains, medieval walls, Gothic doors and apses, Renaissance artwork and baroque carvings.