Things to do in Catania
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Chiesa di San Nicolò all'Arena
Directly opposite Chiesa di San Giuliano is the tiny Via Gesuiti, which leads west to Piazza Dante and Sicily's largest church, the Chiesa di San Nicolò all'Arena. Commissioned in 1687, work on the building was interrupted by the earthquake of 1693 and then by problems with its size - it is 105m long, 48m wide and its cupola is 62m high. The church was never completed. It has a terribly ugly façade, a stark contrast to the rich embellishments that adorn the city's other baroque structures. Directly behind the church and part of the same complex is the massive Benedictine Monastero di San Nicolò all'Arena, built in 1703 and now part of the city's university. It is the seco…
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Fontana dell'Elefante
In the centre of the piazza is the city's most memorable monument, the smiling Fontana dell'Elefante (Fountain of the Elephant; 1736). This comical statue is composed of a naive elephant, dating from the Roman period, surmounted by an improbable Egyptian obelisk. The elephant, with its upturned trunk, is known locally as Liotru and is the symbol of the city.
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Odeon
Catania also has a number of Roman remains dotted throughout the city. West along Via Vittorio Emanuele II is the Roman theatre and a small rehearsal theatre, the Odeon, both closed for restoration at the time of research. North of Piazza del Duomo, more leftovers from Roman days include a modest Roman amphitheatre on Piazza Stesicoro. For relief from the madding crowd, continue north along Via Etnea to the lovely gardens of Villa Bellini with its views of Mt Etna.
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Roman Amphitheatre
The western side of the large and modern Piazza Stesicoro is dominated by the sunken remains of the Roman amphitheatre. It doesn't look like much today, but in around the 2nd century BC it could seat up to 16,000 spectators and was second in size only to the Colosseum in Rome. What you see from the street is only a part of the once-massive structure, which extended as far south as Via Penninello. You can explore part of the vaults and get an idea of the true size of the theatre from a diagram.
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Nievski Pub
Popular with Catania’s alternative crowd, this place serves affordable food and alcohol with a slightly arch attitude (one sign at the bar translates as, ‘we don’t serve minors, and we don’t serve Red Bull or other crap like that’). Cuban revolutionary posters adorn the walls, while the menu is an eclectic mix of salads, vegetarian fare and fish brought in daily from La Pescheria market. At night the beer flows freely as students gather on the steps outside.
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Chiesa di San Giuliano
The Chiesa di San Giuliano (1738-51), designed by Vaccarini, is about halfway up Via Crociferì. The convex central façade makes for an interesting effect. Further on you'll notice the excavations that have resulted in the whole street being closed off to traffic: here, at the crossroads with Via Antonino di Sangiuliano, a section of the old Roman road and a sizable floor mosaic have been uncovered. You can peer over the boarding to take a look.
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Castello Ursino
If you walk south from Piazza del Duomo, through the impressive Porta Uzeda (built in 1696) and down to Piazza Federico di Svevia, you'll come across the imposing fortifications of the 13th-century Castello Ursino, built by Frederick II. The grim-looking fortress, surrounded by a moat, was once on a cliff top overlooking the sea; following the earthquake of 1693 the whole area to the south was reclaimed by the lava and the castle became landlocked.
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Cathedral
Facing the statue is Catania’s other defence against Mt Etna, St Agata’s cathedral, with its impressive marble facade. Inside the cool, vaulted interior lie the remains of the city’s patron saint, the young virgin Agata, who resisted the advances of the nefarious Quintian (AD 250) and was horribly mutilated. The saint’s jewel-drenched effigy is ecstatically venerated on 5 February in one of Sicily’s largest feste.
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Le Ciminiere
Le Ciminiere is a renovated sulphur refinery building. The renovation involved transforming the refineries into a cultural centre while preserving their original character - a bit like the Tate Modern in London. It houses a collection of modern art and a permanent exhibition of WWII memorabilia, art and photography. Enquire at the tourist office about temporary exhibitions and cultural events, or pick up the Lapis leaflet.
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Metrò
This Slow Food–recommended eatery prides itself on stylish presentation and innovative adaptations of traditional Sicilian specialities. Their tonno in cipuddata (tuna steak smothered in caramelised onions) is fabulous, as is the dialogo fra il cioccolato e il pistacchio (a slice of sinfully dense chocolate cake topped with a thin layer of cream and accompanied by a dome of pistachio flan).
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Piazza dell'Università
Via Etnea runs from Piazza del Duomo right up through the city and into the foothills of Mt Etna. It is a bright street with lots of shops and cafés, and at its heart is Piazza dell'Università. Facing each other on the square are two buildings designed by Vaccarini - the Palazzo dell'Università to the west and the Palazzo Sangiuliano to the east. The former is the city's university.
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Arco di San Benedetto
The Arco di San Benedetto is an arch built by the Benedictines in 1704. According to legend, it was built in one night to defy a city ordnance against its construction on the grounds that it was a seismic liability. On the left past the arch is the imposing Chiesa di San Benedetto, built between 1704 and 1713. Inside is some splendid stucco and marble work.
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ZenZero
Set on the roof terrace of an old palazzo that overlooks a peaceful square off the main road, ZenZero is the young people's eating place of choice in Catania. It's a welcome change from the world of pasta, serving international dishes like tempura or Argentine steak. It's also a good place for an aperitivo, and the flower-laden terrace is divine.
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Mercati Generali
The student population's favourite club, this place is out of town (so you'll need your own transport or a taxi) and it hosts the best parties around. DJ Talvin Singh has played here, as well as many good international and local DJs. You'll find Ninja Tunes-released artists on their list, as well as some of Berlin's promising names.
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Ambasciata del Mare
A tiny restaurant on the side of Piazza Duomo (right by the fountain), this is a great spot for the fish market offerings, so tuck into the sardines, or the swordfish cooked in sea water (amazing). If you can fit in a cannolo, go for it, they are delicious. Another Slow Food champion.
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Museo Civico
Catania’s Museo Civico is housed in the grim-looking Castello Ursino. The museum is the repository of the valuable Biscari archaeological collection, an extensive exhibition of paintings, vases and sculpture, plus an impressive coin collection.
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Marrakesh
A North African eatery and bar near Piazza Bellini. Serves couscous, makluba (a spicy chicken stew with aubergines, tomatoes, onions and almonds with rice) and tagine. In summer tables are set up outside and there is nearly always live music or belly-dancing.
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Sant'Agata al Carcere
A small walk away from Piazza Stesicoro you will find the church of Sant'Agata al Carcere, built above the dungeons where the saint was imprisoned and tortured. You can ask the custodian for permission to take a peak at the gloomy prison cell below the church.
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Food Market
The best show in town is the food market where carcasses of meat, silvery fish, skinned sheep’s heads, strings of sausages, huge wheels of cheese and piles of luscious vegetables are all rolled together in a few noisy, jam-packed alleyways.
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Grand Cafè Tabbacco
An old-style pasticceria (pastry shop) with outdoor seating at the lively junction of Via Etnea and Piazza del Duomo, this is the perfect place to people-watch during the passeggiata. Try a selection of mini-tarts filled with fresh fruit.
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Rendez Vous Wine Bar
An elegant place with a modern look and canary-coloured lampshades, the Rendez Vous is right at the end of the Via Teatro Massimo bar strip. It has tables and chairs on the little balcony outside, but the crowd spreads out onto the street below too.
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La Siciliana
Considered one of Catania's best restaurants, La Siciliana serves traditional fare cooked to perfection. Try the breaded cutlets, roast lamb or the huge selection of seafood. Reservations are required and you will need a taxi or car to get here.
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Osteria Antica Marina
This rustic-style trattoria behind the fish market is the place to come for seafood. Try the local favourite, a raw anchovy salad (tastier than it sounds!). Decor-wise think solid wooden tables and rough stone walls. Reservations are essential.
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Via Coppola
The best thing about this place is its atmospheric setting in a quiet street, where the tables are covered by a canopy and surrounded by flickering candles. It's popular with Catanians for its good pizza and is great for a low-key dinner.
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Trattoria Casalinga
A homely, family-run, Slow Food-awarded restaurant presided over by patron Nino, this is a good place for a simple Sicilian dinner of pasta with seafood, tuna steak or a seafood platter with a hearty green salad. Finish with some fruit.
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