Things to do in Agrigento
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Archaeological Park
The archaeological park is divided into two main sections. East of Via dei Templi are the most spectacular temples, the first of which is the Tempio di Ercole (Temple of Hercules), built towards the end of the 6th century BC and believed to be the oldest of the temples. Eight of its 38 columns were raised in 1924 to reveal a structure that was roughly the same size as the Parthenon. The magnificent Tempio della Concordia (Temple of Concord) is the only temple to survive relatively intact. Built around 440 BC, it was transformed into a Christian church in the 6th century. The Tempio di Giunone (Temple of Juno) stands high on the edge of the ridge, a five-minute walk to the…
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Valley of the Temples
One of Sicily's premier attractions, the Unesco World Heritage-listed Valley of the Temples, is a complex of temples and old city walls that remain from the ancient city of Akragas and are reason enough to visit the Mediterranean coast of the island. The five Doric temples actually stand along a ridge, not a valley, designed to be visible from all around and a beacon for homecoming sailors.
In varying states of ruin, the temples give a tantalising glimpse of what must truly have been one of the most luxurious cities in Magna Graecia. After visiting the area, Goethe waxed lyrical: 'We shall never in our lives be able to rejoice again, after seeing such a stupendous view in…
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Museo Archeologico
About halfway up the road from the archaeological park and towards town is the Museo Archeologico, housing a large collection of well-explained (in Italian and English) artefacts from the excavated site in a series of rooms. The last rooms hold artefacts from around the province - be sure to check out the wonderful ceramic bowls and bronze helmets.
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Temple of Olympian Zeus
Across Via dei Panoramica Templi is the entrance to the western zone, the main feature of which is the crumbled remains of the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Covering an area measuring 112m x 56m, with columns 20m high, it would have been the largest Doric temple ever built had its construction not been interrupted by the Carthaginian sack of Akragas. Ironically, the foundations for the temple had been laid by Carthaginian prisoners captured after the Battle of Himera nearly 100 years previously.
The incomplete temple was later destroyed by an earthquake. Lying flat on his back amid the rubble is a telamon, a sculpted figure of a man with arms raised, intended to support the te…
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Hellenistic-Roman Quarter
To the east of the Museo Archeologico is the Hellenistic-Roman Quarter, featuring a well-preserved street layout which was part of urban Akragas (and later, under the Romans, Agrigentum). The regular grid is made up of main streets (plateiai) intersected at right angles by secondary streets (stenopoi), all of which were laid out towards the end of the 4th century BC.
The Romans didn't alter the layout but added their own embellishments, including mosaic floors and stuccowork. They were also responsible for adding water and heating pipes, and introduced drainage facilities for rainwater and sewage.
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Temple of Concord
The Temple of Concord (Tempio della Concordia) is the only temple to survive the unforgiving hands of time and history relatively intact. It was built around 430 BC and was converted into a Christian basilica in the 6th century; thankfully, the new tenants reinforced the main structure, giving it a better chance of surviving an earthquake. In 1748 the temple was restored to its original form.
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Chiesa di San Nicola
In the grounds of the Museo Archeologico is the 13th-century Cistercian Chiesa di San Nicola, with a fine Gothic doorway. Inside, in the second chapel on the right, you'll find a Roman sarcophagus, which bears a wonderful relief of the myth of Phaedra. Alongside it is the Oratory of Phalaris (Oratorio di Falaride), a temple dating from the 1st century BC that was converted into an oratory during the Middle Ages.
On the church's esplanade stands an ancient Odeon called the Ekklesiasterion, built in the 3rd century BC for public meetings.
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Temple of Hercules
The temples that stand unfettered and unenclosed in the eastern zone are the most spectacular of all. The first of these is the Temple of Hercules (Tempio di Ercole), immediately inside the entrance and to the right. Its origin is uncertain but it is believed to be the oldest of the lot, dating from the end of 6 BC. Eight of its 38 columns have been raised and you can wander around the remains of the rest.
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Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Greci
The Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Greci, uphill from Piazza Lena (at the end of Via Atenea), is an 11th-century Norman church built on the site of a 5th-century-BC Greek temple. Note the remains of the wooden Norman ceiling and some Byzantine frescoes. If the church is closed, check with the custodian at Salita Santa Maria dei Greci 1, who will open the doors for you (don’t forget to tip).
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Monastero di Santo Spirito
On Via Santo Spirito, at the top of a set of winding steps north off Via Atenea, is the Cistercian Monastero di Santo Spirito (Monastery of the Holy Spirit), founded around 1290. A handsome Gothic portal leads inside, where you can see some fine stuccowork by Giacomo Serpotta plus a statue of the Madonna Incoronata (Virgin Enthroned) by Domenico Gagini.
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Temple of the Dioscuri
The Temple of the Dioscuri is also known as the Temple of Castor and Pollux. It was built towards the end of the 5th century but was destroyed by the Carthaginians, later restored in Hellenistic style and then destroyed again by an earthquake. What you see today dates from 1832, when it was rebuilt using materials from other temples.
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Il Déhors
The restaurant of the Foresteria Baglio della Luna takes its lead from the monsù cooking of the 1800s when French influences began to reach the Sicilian dinner table. The menu includes sole, lobster and meats such as pheasant, lamb and kid. There are delicious pâtés and plenty of buttery sauces. Excellent.
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Michele Gallo
An excellent English-speaking guide, Michele Gallo can organise individual and group itineraries according to travellers' interests. Itineraries can also be arranged to areas of interest around Agrigento and include literary tours, such as tracing the life and work of Luigi Pirandello, Agrigento's most famous writer.
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Bar/Restaurant
There are public toilets and a convenient bar/restaurant in the archeological park amid the usual souvenir stands. Fittingly, this rugby-scrum of a piazza used to be the ancient agora. A better entrance is on Via Panoramica near the Temple of Hera where there is also a ticket office.
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Temple of Hera
The Temple of Hera (Tempio di Hera) was partially destroyed by an earthquake in the Middle Ages. Just behind the eastern end is a long altar originally used for sacrifices. The traces of red are the result of fire damage, most likely during the Carthaginian invasion of 406 BC.
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Le Caprice
Le Caprice, long one of Agrigento's better restaurants, has a garden location complete with pool and swans. It is renowned for its seafood and the mixed seafood grill is certainly worth its reputation. A glass of the local white is perfect on a hot summer evening.
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Temple of Asclepios
At the crossroads just inside the entrance to the temples, the path south leads to the Temple of Asclepios (Tempio di Esculapio), off the second fork to the left. The smallest of all the temples, it is distinguished by having solid walls instead of a colonnade.
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Trattoria Concordia
Tucked up a side alley, this rustic trattoria with exposed stone and stucco walls specialises in grilled fish along with traditional Sicilian primi like casarecce con pesce spada, melanzane e menta (pasta with swordfish, eggplant and mint).
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Leon d’Oro
An excellent restaurant that warrants its high prices and perfectly mixes the fish and fowl that typify Agrigento cuisine. Try the coniglio in agrodolce (rabbit in a sweet sauce) or the triglia e macco di fave (mullet with broad beans).
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Kokalos
If you have a car, head for this trattoria/pizzeria, on the road to San Leone, where they dish up the area's best pizza. They also serve the local cavatelli (a type of homemade pasta). The views of the Temple of Concord are impressive too.
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Tomb of Theron
A little temple set on a high base is known as the Tomb of Theron (Tomba di Therone), the Greek tyrant of Agrigento, but in fact the structure dates from around 75 BC, during the Roman occupation, nearly 500 years after the tyrant's death.
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La Forchetta
A budget eatery, the Fork serves the cheapest grub in town, with simple pastas and meat fillets to follow. The cramped dining room is often packed with locals who come for the ever-changing daily specials and the relaxed atmosphere.
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Sanctuary of the Chthonic Deities
Just behind the Temple of the Dioscuri is a complex of altars and small buildings believed to be part of the Santuario di Demetra e Kore. The Sanctuary of the Chthonic Deities, as it is known, dates from the early 6th century BC.
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L’Ambasciata di Sicilia
At the ‘Sicilian Embassy’, they do everything they can to improve foreign relations, plying tourists with tasty plates of traditional Sicilian fare. Try to get a table on the small outdoor terrace, which has splendid views.
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Da Giovanni
A reliable option with piazza seating, smooth service, classic Sicilian dishes and mind-blowing cassata(sponge cake with ricotta and fruit). It gets quite busy on Saturday evenings, when bookings are a must.
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