Things to do in Aeolian Islands
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La Sirenetta Diving Club
La Sirenetta Diving Club offers diving courses and accompanied dives.
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Fossa di Vulcano
Climbing Fossa di Vulcano (391m) is one of the island's main attractions. The walk up to the crater is self-evident. Follow the intermittent signs for 'Al Cratere' (or ask for directions), which take you south out of the port area along Via Provinciale. About 500m further, a track slopes off to the left (not well signposted; look out for a gravel track) which leads up to the crater.
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Stromboli crater
The Stromboli crater was formed only 40,000 years ago and, like a champagne bottle, it is full of gases, which is why it almost constantly launches showers of incandescent lava into the air. The most recent eruptions took place on 27 February 2007, opening two new craters on the summit.
Recent crater activity has made it illegal to attempt to climb the volcano without a guide, and local authorities have limited the number of people allowed to go up in a day. You must book in advance (a day before is usually fine, but allowing a couple is advisable in August), and the limit is 20 people per guide.
You'll meet your guide between 4.30 and 17:30, and start your trek up, reachi…
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Santuario della Madonna del Terzito
The Santuario della Madonna del Terzito (Sanctuary of the Madonna of Terzito) is in the valley separating the two volcanoes. It is a place of pilgrimage, particularly around the Feast of the Assumption on 15 August. From the church you can follow the track (signposted) all the way to the peak (about two hours).
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Observatory
Just south of the town is Lipari's observatory, a small place with a big job - monitoring all the volcanic and seismic activity in the Mediterranean. Follow signs south to the Hotel Carasco and Porto delle Gente, which will lead you out to a promontory formed by Monte Giardina and Monte Guardia. From here a track leads through the vineyards to the Observatory with fantastic views across the water to Vulcano.
The route is clearly marked on the Isole Eolie o Lipari 1:25,000 map produced by Litografia Artistica Cartografica.
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Museo Archeologico Eoliano
The fabulous Museo Archeologico Eoliano is one of the very best museums in Sicily, tracing the volcanic and human history of the Aeolian Islands. It is divided into three sections: an archaeological section devoted to artefacts from the Neolithic period and Bronze Age to the Roman era; a classical section with finds from Lipari’s necropolis (including the most complete collection of sensational miniature Greek theatrical masks in the world); and a section on vulcanology and finds from the other islands.
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Cattedrale di San Bartolomeo
You enter the castle via a set of steps that leads up to the 17th-century Cattedrale di San Bartolomeo. It was built to replace the original Norman cathedral, which was destroyed by Barbarossa who, despite his Arab name (Khair-ed-din Barbarossa), was actually an Italian mercenary. The only original element to survive is the 12th-century Benedictine cloister. The interior is hung with chandeliers.
In the northern transept is a silver statue of St Bartholomew (1728) with his flayed skin tucked under his arm.
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Sciara del Fuoco
If you don't fancy going all the way up the volcano, you can go up to 400m, from where you get fabulous views of the Sciara del Fuoco and the explosions at the crater. You're allowed to go to the Sciara on your own, but do bring a torch if you're walking at night. The explosions usually occur every 20 minutes or so and are preceded by a loud belly-roar as gases force the magma into the air. It is incredibly exciting. On a still night the livid red Sciara and exploding cone are dramatically visible.
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Laghetto di Fanghi
Mud-bath enthusiasts should head for the Laghetto di Fanghi, a large mud pit of thick, smelly, sulphurous gloop that has long been considered an excellent treatment for arthritis, rheumatism and skin disorders. Don’t wear your designer swimsuit (you’ll never get the smell out), and be sure to leave your gold chains behind (they will tarnish). Afterwards you can hop into the water at the adjacent beach where acquacalda (hot springs) create a natural jacuzzi effect.
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Bronze Age Village
Head south to Punta Milazzese, about a 30-minute walk past a couple of beaches, to see the Bronze Age Village, made up of 23 huts, which was discovered in 1948. It is reckoned that the headland here was inhabited as far back as the 14th century BC, while pottery found at the site shows distinctly Minoan influences, lending credence to the theory that there were ties between the islanders and the Cretans. The artefacts found here are on display in the Museo Archeologico Eoliano on Lipari.
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Amphibia
Contact Amphibia to hire scuba gear for diving in the islands around Panarea. Crossing the narrow channel from the islet of Bottaro (actually nothing more than a protruding rock) to Lisca Bianca, you will notice there is a small white beach on Lisca Bianca's southern side. Proceed left past the beach and continue around the sharp point of the island. Here, at a depth of perhaps 40m or 50m, you will find the wreck of an old English ship that sank in the 19th century.
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Ai Gechi
An excellent place that's a deserved favourite with the locals, Ai Gechi is a tastefully outfitted Aeolian house whose terrace serves as the dining area. Ship lamps light the tables, and the friendly barefoot waitstaff give you the lowdown on the day's menu. The food is traditional with a slightly modern twist. As you walk up from the port you will see a sign pointing down a small lane to your left. The restaurant is right at the end of the lane.
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Filippino
Having celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2010, Filippino’s is a mainstay of Lipari’s culinary scene, its menu filled with traditional dishes named in Sicilian dialect such as maccarruna i casa alla Filippino (pasta with tomatoes, courgettes, basil, mint, mozzarella and ricotta) and close to 20 delectable desserts. There are separate menus for olive oil, bottled water, grappas (120) and, more conventionally, wine.
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Totem Trekking
To undertake the climb up the volcano you will need proper walking shoes and clothing for cold wet weather, a change of T-shirt, a torch and a good supply of water and some food. Worry not if you haven't got any of those and still want to climb. Totem Trekking hires out all the necessary equipment (which is well maintained), and thanks to the limited climbing numbers, there's plenty to go around.
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Da Alfredo in Cucina
A new outfit run by the son of Alfredo, Lingua's masterly granita maker (of 'Da Alfredo' on Via Manzoni, around the corner). This is a simple and elegant restaurant with a large terrace where each table is lit by an individual overhanging light. It overlooks the salt lagoon and is tucked away from the bustle of the other restaurants and cafés. A wonderful addition to the village.
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Parco Archeologico Contrada Diana
The only worthwhile sight outside the citadel is the Parco Archeologico Contrada Diana, which has revealed part of the original Greek walls (5th and 4th centuries BC) and Roman houses. At the southwestern end of the park is the necropolis, where the tombstones are still visible in the overgrown grass. The park, alas, is rarely open but all of the important finds are in the museum.
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La Tartana
It's hard to tell how to recommend La Tartana: as a bar, semi-disco or restaurant. It's all of those, plus it has great sea views from its terrace. During the day it has a good buffet lunch of fish and vegetables. The evening affair is a different ballgame, with an upmarket menu and crowd. Aperitivi, cocktails and a bit of dancing happen after dusk on the bar terrace.
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Vulcania Tour bus
The Vulcania Tour bus transports passengers up and down the steep curves of Gelso (20 minutes). If you are going to either of Gelso's beaches, ask the driver to let you off at the dirt track. Buses from Gelso leave at 11:00, 12:10 and 17:00, picking up passengers from the pier. Boat tours of the island also call in here and are happy to take passengers on a tour.
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La Forgia Maurizio
The owner of this devilishly good restaurant spent 20 winters in Goa, India; eastern influences sneak into a menu of Sicilian specialities, all prepared and presented with flair. Don’t miss the liquore di kumquat e cardamom, Maurizio’s home-made answer to limoncello. The tasting menu is an excellent deal at €25 including wine and dessert.
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Cantine Stevenson
Like some ill-advised transplant of Scottish décor onto a Sicilian island, Cantine Stevenson is, visually, sorely out of place. But take a tipple in James Stevenson's wine cellars and you'll be thanking the Scotsman who bought most of Vulcano in the 19th century with a view to exploiting its natural resources. He also planted the first vineyards.
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Le Macine
This Slow Food-awarded restaurant is located outside Lipari just as you enter Pianoconte. Creative Aeolian cooking includes fish in ghiotta sauce: a blend of olive oil, capers, tomatoes, garlic and basil. Lobster-filled ravioli or the fresh grilled swordfish are great too. The presentation is nicely low-key, but the portions could be bigger.
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Cucinotta Rita
Salina's best restaurant is this small place at the end of Via Risorgimento. Sit at one of the elegantly set tables alfresco, while the attentive waiters serve fantastic food such as stuffed squid, grilled swordfish sprinkled with parsley, and hearty chocolate cake desserts. You can also pop in here for breakfast - the croissants are freshly baked.
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Bar La Precchia
If you fancy a late-night drink or want to be in the right place for crowd gazing during passeggiata (evening stroll), Bar La Precchia is a local favourite. It has an enormous menu of drinks, from café frappe and fruit milkshakes to cocktails and wine. In summer it's open until 03:00 and often has live music.
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La Formagella
You simply can’t leave the Aeolian Islands without a small pot of capers and a bottle of sweet Malvasia wine. You can get both, along with meats, cheeses and other delicious goodies at La Formagella. Try the house speciality, alerchino di capperi, a pungent mix of capers, garlic, pepper, oil and vinegar.
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Da Alfredo
The most atmospheric place on Salina for an affordable snack, Alfredo’s place has been renowned for decades for its granite (ices made with coffee, fresh fruit or locally grown pistachios and almonds) and pane cunzato (open-faced sandwiches piled high with tuna, ricotta, eggplant, tomatoes, capers and olives).
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