Things to do in Nuoro
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Monte Ortobene
About 7km northeast of Nuoro is the granite peak of Monte Ortobene, capped by its massive statue of the Redentore (Christ the Redeemer). It's a place of veneration, but it's also a favourite picnic spot for locals. On 29 August (starting bright and early at 06:00) the brightly clothed faithful make a pilgrimage here from the cathedral. Afterwards Mass is celebrated in the nearby Chiesa di Nostra Signora del Monte, and there's another late-morning Mass at the feet of the statue.
After the spirit has been taken care of, the thoughts of the Nuoresi turn to more terrestrial needs. Many fan out in the woods (full of ilex, pine, fir and poplar) and open picnic hampers, while ot…
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Museo d'Arte (MAN)
From past to present, the Museo d'Arte (MAN) museum is the only serious contemporary art gallery in Sardinia. Its permanent collection is a wonderful sample of 20th-century Sardinian art, including big-name artists such as Antonio Ballero, Giovanni Ciusa-Romagna, Mario Delitalia and abstract artist Mauro Manca. Local sculptors Francesco Ciusa and Costantino Nivola are also represented.
To see a bronze copy of Francesco Ciusa's Madre dell'Ucciso (Mother of the Killed), which won a prize at the Venice Biennale in 1907, you should visit the Chiesa di San Carlo (Piazza San Carlo).
This permanent show is usually accompanied by more wide-ranging temporary exhibits, usually held …
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Piazza Satta
A brief walk northwest up Via Satta will bring you to Piazza Satta, the square dedicated to the great poet Sebastiano Satta (1867-1914), who was born in a house here. In true Nuoro style the town felt that a cultural memorial was necessary and commissioned sculptor Costantino Nivola (1911-88) to come up with something.
Nivola whitewashed the square to provide a blank background for a series of granite sculptures that rise up like menhirs. Each sculpture has a carved niche containing a small bronze figurine (a clear wink at the prehistoric bronzetti) depicting a character from Satta's poems. It was a typically unusual idea and must originally have been an impressive sight.…
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Cattedrale Santa Maria Della Neve
All that can be said of the cinnamon-coloured neoclassical façade of Nuoro's 19th-century cathedral is that it's big. Inside you can see a couple of mildly interesting works, including Disputa de Gesù Fra i Dottori (Jesus Arguing with the Doctors), a canvas attributed to the school of Luca Giordano and located between the first and second chapels on the right as you enter. Half the panels of the Via Crucis (Stations of the Cross) are by Giovanni Ciusa-Romagna.
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Chiesa della Solitudine
Although she lived 36 of her 65 years in Rome, Nobel prize-winner Grazia Deledda's life was consumed by Nuoro and its essential dramas. Fittingly, she was brought home to be buried in the plain granite church of the Chiesa della Solitudine. You will find her granite sarcophagus to the right of the altar. On the eve of 28 August, the religious high point of Nuoro's Festa del Redentore, a solemn torchlight parade starts here at 21:00 and concludes at the cathedral.
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Museo Archeologico Nazionale
The Museo Archeologico Nazionale is housed in the neoclassical Palazzo Asproni and displays a collection of artefacts excavated in Nuoro province. These range from ancient ceramics and fine bronzetti (bronze figurines) to a drilled skull from 1600 BC and Roman and early-medieval finds.
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Museo Deleddiano
Up in the oldest part of town, the birthplace of Grazia Deledda has been converted into a lovely little museum, the Museo Deleddiano. The rooms, full of Deledda memorabilia, have been carefully restored to show what a well-to-do 19th-century Nuorese house actually looked like.
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Su Nugoresu
This upmarket trattoria with outdoor seating is on the attractive Piazza San Giovanni. The clientele is young and modish, and the surroundings are subtly rustic. Pizzas come hot out of the oven, while other more refined dishes (including some very nice fish) are served with a flourish.
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Il Rifugio
Head to this laid-back, local favourite for great pizzas and delicious Sardinian fare. Lamb features heavily on the menu, starring in dishes such as pecora in cassola alla nuorese con cipolline e funghi (Nuoro-style lamb with onions and mushrooms).
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Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni Sarde
The Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni Sarde provides a fascinating insight into Sardinian traditions, folklores, superstitions and celebrations. Its pièce de résistance is the colourful display of traditional costumes.
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Galleria Il Portico
This good art gallery exhibits a wide range of work by notable contemporary artists such as Antonio Corriga and Vittorio Calvi. Oils and watercolours predominate, and prices range from a few hundred euros to several thousand.
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Pit Stop
With its racing-car theme and cheap-as-chips fixed-price menus, this place is very popular with students and teenagers. You can eat here, too, but the main diversion is a drink in the square until around midnight.
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Ciusa
Punters are drawn to Ciusa for its excellent pizzas, tempting pasta dishes, such as maccarones de busa al ragù (macaroni in a duck sauce), and lusciously rich risotto with melted cheese and wine.
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Bar Nuovo
Strategically placed between two converging streets, Bar Nuovo makes optimum use of the position with a good people-watching terrace outside. It's as good for the morning paper as it is for an evening's beer.
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Centro Sportivo Farcana
About 4km up Monte Ortobene from Nuoro, this sports centre is signposted off to the left. Its main attraction is the outdoor Olympic pool, a treat in summer if you haven't the energy to go to the seaside.
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Bar Majore
This is Nuoro's oldest café, and it's much loved by the locals. The interior is richly decorated with fancy gilded stucco, old fittings and an extraordinary frescoed ceiling.
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UPIM
If you want to make your own meals, pick up fresh produce at the mercato on Piazza Goffredo Mameli and other goods at the UPIM supermarket, near the train station.
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Su Redentore
This cheerful and popular eatery is at the top of Monte Ortobene. It has a varied menu of seafood and more traditional local dishes, which are the better option.
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Ristorante Tascusì
In the heart of the old town, Tascusì offers a limited but reliable range of pastas and mains, including the region's famous roast pork.
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Premiata Pasticceria Il Golosastro
A traditional pastry shop, Il Golosastro serves pastries so fine that they look as though they've been made out of lace.
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Il Portico
A longtime favourite, Il Portico was closed for renovations at the time of writing but it's worth checking out as well.
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Libreria Mondadori
A handy bookshop selling good maps, although there's little in English.
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