Sights in Nuoro
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Monte Ortobene
About 7km northeast of Nuoro is the granite peak of Monte Ortobene, capped by its massive statue of the Redentore (Christ the Redeemer). It's a place of veneration, but it's also a favourite picnic spot for locals. On 29 August (starting bright and early at 06:00) the brightly clothed faithful make a pilgrimage here from the cathedral. Afterwards Mass is celebrated in the nearby Chiesa di Nostra Signora del Monte, and there's another late-morning Mass at the feet of the statue.
After the spirit has been taken care of, the thoughts of the Nuoresi turn to more terrestrial needs. Many fan out in the woods (full of ilex, pine, fir and poplar) and open picnic hampers, while ot…
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Museo d'Arte (MAN)
From past to present, the Museo d'Arte (MAN) museum is the only serious contemporary art gallery in Sardinia. Its permanent collection is a wonderful sample of 20th-century Sardinian art, including big-name artists such as Antonio Ballero, Giovanni Ciusa-Romagna, Mario Delitalia and abstract artist Mauro Manca. Local sculptors Francesco Ciusa and Costantino Nivola are also represented.
To see a bronze copy of Francesco Ciusa's Madre dell'Ucciso (Mother of the Killed), which won a prize at the Venice Biennale in 1907, you should visit the Chiesa di San Carlo (Piazza San Carlo).
This permanent show is usually accompanied by more wide-ranging temporary exhibits, usually held …
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Piazza Satta
A brief walk northwest up Via Satta will bring you to Piazza Satta, the square dedicated to the great poet Sebastiano Satta (1867-1914), who was born in a house here. In true Nuoro style the town felt that a cultural memorial was necessary and commissioned sculptor Costantino Nivola (1911-88) to come up with something.
Nivola whitewashed the square to provide a blank background for a series of granite sculptures that rise up like menhirs. Each sculpture has a carved niche containing a small bronze figurine (a clear wink at the prehistoric bronzetti) depicting a character from Satta's poems. It was a typically unusual idea and must originally have been an impressive sight.…
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Cattedrale Santa Maria Della Neve
All that can be said of the cinnamon-coloured neoclassical façade of Nuoro's 19th-century cathedral is that it's big. Inside you can see a couple of mildly interesting works, including Disputa de Gesù Fra i Dottori (Jesus Arguing with the Doctors), a canvas attributed to the school of Luca Giordano and located between the first and second chapels on the right as you enter. Half the panels of the Via Crucis (Stations of the Cross) are by Giovanni Ciusa-Romagna.
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Chiesa della Solitudine
Although she lived 36 of her 65 years in Rome, Nobel prize-winner Grazia Deledda's life was consumed by Nuoro and its essential dramas. Fittingly, she was brought home to be buried in the plain granite church of the Chiesa della Solitudine. You will find her granite sarcophagus to the right of the altar. On the eve of 28 August, the religious high point of Nuoro's Festa del Redentore, a solemn torchlight parade starts here at 21:00 and concludes at the cathedral.
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Museo Archeologico Nazionale
The Museo Archeologico Nazionale is housed in the neoclassical Palazzo Asproni and displays a collection of artefacts excavated in Nuoro province. These range from ancient ceramics and fine bronzetti (bronze figurines) to a drilled skull from 1600 BC and Roman and early-medieval finds.
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Museo Deleddiano
Up in the oldest part of town, the birthplace of Grazia Deledda has been converted into a lovely little museum, the Museo Deleddiano. The rooms, full of Deledda memorabilia, have been carefully restored to show what a well-to-do 19th-century Nuorese house actually looked like.
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Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni Sarde
The Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni Sarde provides a fascinating insight into Sardinian traditions, folklores, superstitions and celebrations. Its pièce de résistance is the colourful display of traditional costumes.
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