Galleria Colonna

Lonely Planet review

An extravagant work of art in its own right, this opulent six-room gallery houses the Colonna family's private art collection. It's not the capital's largest collection but it's highly regarded and well worth the ticket price. Entry is on Via della Pilotta, a picturesque street spanned by four arches connecting Palazzo Colonna to its private gardens.

Originally built in the 15th century for Pope Martin V, the palazzo was renovated in the 18th century for the Colonna family, members of whom still live here. The gallery, the only part open to the public, was completed in 1703. The outstanding ceiling frescoes are all dedicated to Marcantonio Colonna, the family's greatest ancestor, who defeated the Turks at the naval Battle of Lepanto in 1571. Works by Giovanni Coli and Filippo Gherardi in the Great Hall, Sebastiano Ricci in the Landscapes Room and Giuseppe Bartolomeo Chiari in the Throne Room commemorate his efforts.

Among the artists are Salvatore Rosa, Guido Reni and Guercino, but it's Annibale Carracci's charming Mangiafagioli (The Bean Eater) that is considered the collection's masterpiece. Oddities to look out for include a cannonball lodged into the wall during the 1849 siege of Rome and, in the Throne Room, a chair kept ready (turned to the wall) in case of a papal visit.