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Tartarughe
Ask a stylish Roman woman where she got her classic-yet-individual outfit and she may well point you in Tartarughe's direction. This small boutique sells grown-up clothes that are just frivolous enough to make them interesting. Designer Susanna Liso's outfits are ideal for a special occasion, with tops that are whispers of chiffon, multicoloured dresses and strikingly cut jackets.
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Tebro
Since 1867 this upmarket department store has been keeping wealthy locals in linen, underwear and nightwear. It's from a gentler era: styles are staid, quality is tiptop, service is courteous.
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Teichner
This is one of Rome's many temples to food so wander in, breathe deeply and select from cheese, hams, pickles, pestos and so on. There are also a select few ready dishes, such as aubergine parmigiana .
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Tempi Moderni
Tempi Moderni opened in 1976, and the kaftans and look-at-me ties appear to date from then. But the reason to shop here is the superb vintage costume jewellery: wonderful '20s and '30s Bakelite pieces, Art Nouveau and Art Deco trinkets, Pop Art gems, 19th-century resin brooches, and pieces by couturiers such as Chanel, Dior and Balenciaga.
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Temporary Love
The coolest new kid on the block, boutique-cum-gallery Temporary Love collaborates with edgy artists to create limited-edition men's and women's bags and threads - from funky graphic T-shirts to hand-painted totes. There are five collections/exhibitions a year, and past collaborators include France's Serge Uberti and local street-art hero Sten.
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Tina Sondergaard
Sublimely cut and whimsically retro-esque, these handmade threads are a hit with female fashion cognoscenti, including Italian rock star Carmen Consoli and the city's theatre and TV crowd. Each piece is a limited edition and new creations hit the racks every week.
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Tod's
Tod's trademark is its rubber-studded loafers (the idea was to reduce those pesky driving scuffs), perfect weekend footwear for chilling at your country estate. This flagship store is a temple of top-of-the-range casual shoes and expensive leather accessories.
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Touring Club Italiano
Touring Club Italiano is the travel branch of Italy's motoring organisation, the Automobile Club Italiano. It produces Italy's finest maps and travel books, all of which are sold at this, its flagship store. You'll find one of Rome's best collections of guides to Rome in English, an excellent stock of art books and a travel agency.
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Troncarelli
Romans really cut a dash in a hat, but don't fret: you too can learn. There might not be the demand that there was when Signore Troncarelli opened his shop here in 1857, but it's still a thriving trade. Become an Englishman abroad in a panama or channel French-Resistance chic in a beret.
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Underground
This monthly market indeed takes place underground, in a subterranean car park near Villa Borghese. There are more than 150 stalls selling everything from antiques and collectables to clothes and toys.
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Valentino
King of Roman fashion, Valentino made his name dressing names like Sophia Loren and Audrey Hepburn and reached his peak in the 70s. Here you'll find his slightly more affordable range, aimed at a younger market than his couture collections - the latter, featuring superb evening gowns, have always been inaccessible to all but the most wealthy customers.
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Vestiti Usati Cinzia
Cinzia remains one of the best vintage shops on this street. Jackets (in leather, denim, corduroy and linen), slouchy boots, screen-printed T-shirts, vintage skirts and suede coats crowd the walls.
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Via Sannio
This morning market in the shadow of Porta San Giovanni, near the basilica, is worth checking out if you want to update your wardrobe staples. There's a good assortment of new and vintage clothes, shoes at bargain prices, and a particularly good range of jeans and leather jackets.
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Victory
Rome's penchant for mainstream catwalk crud bypassed Victory, which flies the flag for harder-to-find male wardrobe winners. Must-buys include Dondup jeans, Gaetano Navarra shirts and Barcelona footwear label Munich. Clued-up female fashionistas can get their fix across the street at No 103-4.
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Vignano
This frozen-in-time shop, piled high with head candy, opened in 1873 and sells top hats, bowler hats and deerstalkers, as well as other types that haven't fallen quite so out of fashion. It's worth a look even if you haven't got Ascot on the horizon.
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Volpetti
Volpetti strides like a colossus among Rome's delis. You'll find everything from smelly cheese to fresh homemade pasta, olive oils, vinegar, salami, veggie pies, wine and grappa. Helpful staff will guide you through your choice and you can also order online.
