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Sermoneta
Put your hands in a pair of Giorgio Sermoneta's gloves and you might find you don't want to take them out again. At Rome's most famous glove-seller's, there's a kaleidoscopic range of top-quality coloured and textured leather and suede gloves with linings in silk and cashmere.
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Stilo Fetti
An old-fashioned shop where assistants wear ties and know the exact location of every item, Stilo Fetti is a throwback to the days when people wrote with pen and ink. Here you'll find racks of fountain pens and sleek leather briefcases.
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Tempi Moderni
Tempi Moderni opened in 1976, and the kaftans and look-at-me ties appear to date from then. But the reason to shop here is the superb vintage costume jewellery: wonderful '20s and '30s Bakelite pieces, Art Nouveau and Art Deco trinkets, Pop Art gems, 19th-century resin brooches, and pieces by couturiers such as Chanel, Dior and Balenciaga.
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Temporary Love
The coolest new kid on the block, boutique-cum-gallery Temporary Love collaborates with edgy artists to create limited-edition men's and women's bags and threads - from funky graphic T-shirts to hand-painted totes. There are five collections/exhibitions a year, and past collaborators include France's Serge Uberti and local street-art hero Sten.
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Troncarelli
Romans really cut a dash in a hat, but don't fret: you too can learn. There might not be the demand that there was when Signore Troncarelli opened his shop here in 1857, but it's still a thriving trade. Become an Englishman abroad in a panama or channel French-Resistance chic in a beret.
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Vignano
This frozen-in-time shop, piled high with head candy, opened in 1873 and sells top hats, bowler hats and deerstalkers, as well as other types that haven't fallen quite so out of fashion. It's worth a look even if you haven't got Ascot on the horizon.






