You can’t beat the romance of Sora Lella’s setting on the river Tiber’s tiny island. Ring the doorbell to gain entrance to this timeless institution, named after the much-loved Roman TV star (the owner’s mother), and family-run since 1940. The classic Roman menu has some twists, including some wonderful fish dishes – try the standout paccheri con ragù di pesce (giant pasta tubes served with a tomato seafood sauce).