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GiNa
Tucked around the corner from the Spanish Steps, this is an ideal place to drop into once you've shopped. Comfy white seats are strewn with powder-blue cushions, and the walls are hung with modern paintings. You can eat light snacks such as bruschetta with buffalo mozzarella and anchovies, pasta with beans, or smoked-salmon sandwiches. Villa Borghese picnics for two are also provided.
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Gino
Conviviality should be this place's middle name. Hidden down a narrow lane, it's friendly and always busy, a favourite of local politicians and journalists. Here you can eat fabulously executed staples such as gnocchi and tonnarelli (square-shaped spaghetti) under painted vines, overlooked by some of the loudest murals in town.
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Giolitti
When Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn stopped by gelato-tastic Giolitti in Roman Holiday, they were onto a good thing. Elbow your way through the photo-snapping hordes for succulent, natural-tasting sorbets (the pear is unmissable) and richer must-licks such as marrons glacés and hazelnut.
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Glass Hostaria
For verging-on-quaint Trastevere, the self-conscious modishness of this place stands out. It's a nice place for a drink as well as a meal - you can sit outside and have a glass of prosecco . Less expensive than you might expect from the décor, the wine list and creative Italian cuisine are impressive - with imaginative dishes such as rosemary tagliatelle with ragù of goose, cherries and mushrooms, or pork medallions with crispy savoy cabbage.
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Gran Caffè La Caffettiera
This stately café is a throwback to smarter days and is famous for its Neapolitan cakes - try the sumptuous babà (sponge cake soaked in rum) for something special, and the rustici (cheese-and-tomato-filled pastry puff) for something savoury. Sit in the elegant Art Deco interior or outside and watch life on the enchanting square, overlooked by the ancient Tempio di Adriano.
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Grappolo d'Oro
More up to date (in design terms) than nearby Ditirambo, this is a similarly buzzing, informal, stylish eatery among the sometimes lacklustre options in this neighbourhood. The food is creative without being over-designed, but with old favourites such as spaghetti alla carbonara and meatballs.
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Green T
It's unusual to find good Chinese food in Rome, and this elegant place, both modern and classical oriental in look, is something entirely different: a tearoom and boutique, serving street food, meat and fish dishes, as well as a selection of raw seafood.
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Hasekura
Favoured by actors and celebrities, tourists and Japanese expats, Hasekura has a simple interior and extremely good food. As well as sushi and sashimi, there is excellent tempura and traditional meat dishes.
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Hostaria Costanza
This is old-school Roman dining at its best. In the basement of Pompey's Theatre, Costanza serves up simple and wonderfully cooked food such as a creamy riso con fiori di zucca (risotto with courgette flowers), perfect ravioli di carciofi (ravioli with artichokes) and a simply delicious filetto di manzo al barolo (fillet of beef with barolo wine sauce). Bookings essential.
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Hostaria Isidoro
Convivial, no-fuss Isidoro has all the right ingredients: obliging waiters, lip-licking locals, and bountiful serves of soul food - golden roast chicken with soothing Gorgonzola and a delicate penne alle noci (pasta with walnut sauce).
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Hostaria Zampagna
The trendification of Via Ostiense - with ever-growing numbers of bars and clubs in its side streets - has thankfully bypassed this humble trattoria near the Basilica di San Paolo fuori le Mura. As for the past 80 years, you sit down to good hearty food prepared according to the city's weekly calendar. It's all splendid: try spaghetti alla carbonara, or all'amatriciana, then tuck into tripe, beef or involtini (stuffed rolls of meat).
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Hostaria-Pizzeria Giacomelli
This neighbourhood restaurant has them queuing around the block for thin and crispy Roman pizzas. The décor is nothing fancy (high ceilings, lots of photos), but the reliably good food has locals voting with their feet. There's some outside seating under striped awning on the pleasant street.
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Hosteria del Pesce
One of the capital's hottest seafood restaurants, this place has filled the bellies of Francis Ford Coppola and Giorgio Armani among other megastars. It sports a studiously low-key look of hardwood floors and deep-blue walls, gets packed, and serves unforgettable, ultrafresh food. Squid is fried and served with creamy mash, risotto is dyed jet-black with octopus ink, while sea bream, snapper and turbot are grilled to crispy perfection, all accompanied by white wines only. Booking is advised.
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Il Bacaro
You'll have to book, as Il Bacaro is the size of a postage stamp and always busy. It might be small but it's perfectly formed: the primi (first courses) are imaginative - try spaghetti con gamberi, porcini, pecorino e tartufo (spaghetti with prawns, porcini mushrooms, cheese and truffles) - the meat dishes are beefy and the wine list is well chosen. Summer seating spills out under a vine-covered pergola.
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Il Bar Sotto il Mare
Only a few minutes' walk straight down the road from the Vatican entrance, this easygoing restaurant is nonetheless tucked away and feels like a find. It's a laid-back place with a funky vibe: blue arched rooms set the submarine theme and the menu is full of delicious, simply cooked seafood. Service can be a bit laid-back too.
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Il Convivio Troiani
Michelin-starred Il Convivio, tucked away in a 16th-century palazzo (mansion) north of Piazza Navona, is run by the talented Troiano brothers. It's elegant, intimate and impeccable. Menus are seasonal and there's an accompanying wine list of more than 2000 labels. Booking is essential and an attitude of reverence recommended.
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Il Gelato di San Crispino
We forgive the stingy servings simply because this is possibly the world's best gelato. Religiously stored under stainless steel lids, the flavours are seasonal, strictly natural and unforgettable - ranging from the piquant fig to the zesty ginger and cinnamon.
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Il Guru
In the atmospheric Monti district, Il Guru is filled with embroidered drapes and elaborate statuettes, and is a popular place for Indian food. The tandooris are prepared in a proper tandoori oven, the curries and vegetables are tasty and the setting is suggestive, albeit of Rome rather than Rajasthan.
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Il Palazzetto
Take a light lunch on the terrace (with views of the Spanish Steps), or dine on new-school wonders in the old-school library room (think chestnut tagliolini pasta with whelks and black truffle). Wine buffs take note: the International Wine Academy of Roma awaits downstairs.
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Il Posto Accanto
On pretty Via del Boschetto, this homely, family-run restaurant is small - there are only 25 places - and instantly memorable, lined by harvest-festival displays of fruit and veg. The food is splendid, with homemade ravioli and fish among the house specialities.
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Imàgo
The Hassler Hotel's revamped rooftop showcase is hot - we're talking seamless city views (request the corner table), sexy mirrored tables, lush velvet chairs, and bold mod-Italian creations from culinary star Francesco Apreda. Book ahead.
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Indian Fast Food
A genuine Indian takeaway just off Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, this basic place might not look like much, but it has great curries and spicy samosas. The fare is displayed for easy picking - just point to what you want - and you can either take it away or eat under neon lighting to a soundtrack of Hindi hits.
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Insalata Ricca
Tapping into a taste for salad among all that pizza and pasta, Insalata Ricca is reliable and popular, with numerous branches. It offers a huge choice of meal-sized salads ranging from traditional tomato and mozzarella to out-there apple and walnut. You'll find branches at Piazza Pasquino 72, Via Giulio Cesare Santini 12, Via FP Calboli 50, and handily near the Vatican at Piazza del Risorgimento 4.
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Jaipur
Jaipur is a cut above most other Indian restaurants in Rome and has an airy interior covered in Indian paintings to get you in the mood. Popular with young Romans and the city's foreign student population, it specialises in northern Indian cooking, with a large selection of tandoori dishes as well as those old friends - tikka masala and rogan josh . Vegetarians are well catered for.
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l'Altro Mastai
L'Altro Mastai is a graceful, special-occasion place, with an interior that manages to be both grand and intimate. Service is fabulous and Fabio Baldassare's cooking expert and innovative. His creations include cod dressed with caviar and John Dory fillet with artichokes and liquorice, but he never lets creativity get in the way of balance and flavour.
