To start your exploration of this bar-studded area, try the iconic Necci, opened in 1924, where film director Pasolini used to hang out, and where he filmed some of Accattone. More recently it appeared in Francesca Archibugi’s Una questione di Cuore. Gutted by fire in 2009, it was swiftly restored to how it was. It caters to an eclectic crowd of all ages, and has a lovely, leafy garden-terrace (ideal for families out for dinner as the kids have some room to play). There’s wi-fi.