Although its traditionally proletarian nature is changing as the crumbling palazzi become gentrified, a stroll among the labyrinthine...
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere
Trastevere’s focal square is a prime people-watching spot. By day it’s full of mums with strollers, chatting locals and guidebook-toting...
Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere
Nestled in a quiet corner of Trastevere's focal square, this is said to be the oldest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary in Rome. In...
Bar San Calisto
Those in the know head to the down-at-heel 'Sanca' for its basic, stuck-in-time atmosphere and cheap prices (beer €1.50). It attracts...
The speciality of this glorious, stuck-in-time cake shop, opened in 1925 and not redecorated since, is the legendary torta sacher, the...
Piazza San Calisto 7a · interesting places nearby
An old-school restaurant set in a 17th-century building with tables on a small piazza, Paris – named for its founder, not the French capital – is the best place outside the Ghetto to sample Roman-Jewish cuisine. Signature dishes include gran fritto vegetale con baccalà (deep-fried vegetables with salt cod) and carciofi alla giudia (fried artichoke).