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Villa Celimontana
Lush pines and palms, a sprinkling of Roman ruins and a 16th-century villa set the scene for blissful chilling at this underrated hilltop park. Home to a modest playground for overactive tots, its greatest claim to fame is the swinging, summer-long Villa Celimontana Jazz Festival (www.villacelimontanajazz.com).
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Villaggio Globale
Rome's former slaughterhouse houses the extraordinary Villaggio Globale centro sociale . Resembling a grungy, down-at-heel student union, with lots of skinning up, dreadlocks, cheap beer and hip-hop styling, the centre stages some great gigs - recent stars have included the Beastie Boys. Winter events take place in a huge circus tent, Spazio Boario (so called as it's in the former 'cattle yard') .
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Vineria Reggio
The coolest bar on the campo , this has a small, bottle-lined, cosy interior and outside tables as well, and attracts fighi (cool) Romans like bees to a honey pot. A media beer costs around €5 .50.
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Vini E Olii
Looking like a dimly lit cellar-cum-garage, salt of the earth Vini e Olii is a favourite aperitivo haunt for local bohemians. Perched on tiny wooden stools that spill out onto the pedestrianised street, they drink decent house vino from plastic cups, eat old-school porchetta (sliced pork) on disposable plates, and talk life and Lacan to soulful funk and blues.
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Warner Village Moderno
This is where big-budget Hollywood blockbusters are premiered in Italy. Hidden behind the columns that circle Piazza della Repubblica, the Warner Village Moderno multiplex has five screens showing major-release commercial films (both in English and dubbed into Italian).






