Venture a little way up the Gianicolo, up a steep flight of steps from Trastevere. Go on, it’s so worth it: you’ll discover this cocktail bar, an architectural triumph. The bar is mostly huge plate-glass windows overlooking the district, and there’s a garden terrace. The basslines are meaty, the bar staff hip girls with glossy curtains of hair, the interior mixes vintage with pop art, and it’s genuinely cool. A G&T costs €8.