Yes, it's a bar… with books, which line the walls alongside oddball retro finds and art. In the middle, at a long communal table lit by low-strung lamps, locals read, chat and sip the house speciality spritzer. Aperitivo(happy hour) comes with DJ tunes on Fridays and Saturdays from 19:30, and the Sunday brunch (12:30) is tasty fuel for cultured brains.