Montepulciano
An unfussy dining room sets the scene for hearty Tuscan cooking – homemade soups include potato and pici (a type of hand-rolled pasta); polenta comes with…
Must-see restaurants in Italy
Lucca
This hybrid osteria-enoteca in the red-brick vaulted cellars of 16th-century Palazzo Bernardini has the balance just right. Seasonal Tuscan dishes such as…
Assisi
As much as the food, the big draw here is the al fresco terrace and its heavenly views – the green valley below Assisi spreads picturesquely before you…
Centro Storico
A reliable choice in the touristy Pantheon area, Settimio's is a classic family-run trattoria with Nonna in the kitchen and copper pans on the walls…
San Lorenzo & San Marco
Near the train station, this quintessential family-run trattoria with emerald-green facade cooks up an earthy Tuscan cuisine. Rev up tastebuds with a…
Termoli
One of the more reliable restaurants in the newer, more lively part of Termoli. It's open year-round and serves both seafood and Neapolitan-style pizza…
Calabria
For expansive sea and castle views dine at this bright and airy seafood specialist. Try the squeaky-fresh crudo di mare (raw seafood) antipasto, the…
Alghero
Don't come expecting romance and refined dining, but if you're after a simple pasta fill-up, this modest eatery hits the mark. It's a workaday place with…
Sassari
A bit of a walk out from the centre, Da Gesuino hits all the right notes with its relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere, efficient service and decent food…
Rome
An unpretentious spot with a shady garden, this landmark trattoria has been part of the neighbourhood since 1820. It's well known locally and can get busy…
San Polo & Santa Croce
With its bare bricks and modern decor, Muro was one of the first to bring contemporary informal dining to Venice. An innovative menu combining pizza and…
Ischia
At the smarter end of the port, this posh cafe employs old-school bow-tied waiters to serve an artistic-looking selection of cakes, pastries, coffees and…
San Polo & Santa Croce
An offshoot of the historic (and some say Venice's best) gelateria in Campo Santa Margherita, Gelateria Il Doge serves delicious flavours such as mango or…
Trentino & South Tyrol
Touristy, tick, loud and raucous, tick. Yes, this is a typical ski-town restaurant, but it's fun, friendly and affordable. The polenta, mushrooms and…
Perugia
With its streetside terrace on an attractive back lane daubed with murals, the Gufo is well placed for a meal of robust regional cooking. To keep it local…
Venice
It may sit on a backstreet, but snug Al Vecio Marangon is one of Dorsoduro's worst-kept secrets. Head in early or book ahead for one of the handful of…
The Amalfi Coast
A deli-cafe in Bomerano’s main square where you can load up on caffeine and cornetti (croissants) before embarking on the Sentiero degli Dei. They also…
Northwestern Tuscany
Quell hunger pangs at the former home of the Foreigners' Club, an elegant belle époque building on the river side of Viale Umberto I, southeast of the…
Turin
Alberto Marchetti is a master of quality, managing every part of his gelato-making process, from fruit selection to the type of milk used. Scoops to seek…
Bologna
It's got nothing on Modena's far more impressive market, but you can stock up on victuals just the same at Bologna’s main covered market, churning out…
Agrigento
Rough stone walls and wood-beamed ceilings lend a cosy atmosphere to this quintessential family-run trattoria, tucked up a side alley in the old town…
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo
Formica tables, Hindi music videos, neon lights, chapattis, naans, lip-smacking samosas and a simple selection of main curry dishes (including veggie…
Alghero
Visitors flock to this bustling little eatery for reliable trattoria staples such as fried squid and grilled steaks, as well as local specialties like…
Vatican City, Borgo & Prati
Exhausted museum-goers besiege this tiny gelateria. It's been in business for more than 25 years and still does a roaring trade in creamy gelato, served…
Pisa
Everything cooked here is strictly seasonal, local and organic, with products from farms within a 50km radius of Pisa. Feast on dishes like risotto with…
Alghero
Frequented by locals and visitors, this is a classic old-school trattoria. Diners sit in its cosy, stone-vaulted interior as waiters ply them with hearty…
Centro Storico
This starched, old-fashioned restaurant is a picture of formal elegance with its chandeliers, white-jacketed waiters and alfresco terrace on a picture…
Punto di Ristoro Nuraghe Majori
Northeastern Sardinia
With tables spilling onto a flowery open-air patio, this makes a lovely spot for an economical lunch of grilled meat, roast potatoes and salad, or plates…
Turin
In-the-know locals flock to this intimate restaurant over the river from Piazza Vittorio Veneto. There's a full menu of pastas and pizzas, but the star…
Cala Gonone
There's always a good buzz at this incredibly popular restaurant and pizzeria with a lovely sea-facing terrace. Snag a table to dig into excellent wood…
Sulcis
For a filling meal of humble workers fare, join the locals at this new outfit up in the town centre. There are few frills but they do an excellent…
Santa Maria Novella
This trattoria and rosticceria (roastery) has been here for aeons but its traditional fare and old-school attitude safeguards a faithful clientele. Its…
Sorrento
Looking more like a science laboratory than an ice-cream parlour, Raki displays a long list of esoteric gelati, all of the flavours are homemade and…
Lake Garda
Despite its roadside situation, Al Capital features a lovely shady garden, a warm rustic interior and serves a commendable Veronese menu. Lake fish are…
Southern Rome
This brightly lit outpost of the huge pan-European gelato chain lacks the intimacy of smaller, artisanal ice-cream shops. But enticing flavours include…
Salerno & the Cilento
Dull building on outskirts of Polla serving notably less dull wheels of pizza, cooked in a wood-fired oven; it also dishes up antipasti and pasta dishes…
Vatican City, Borgo & Prati
The real appeal at this popular Sicilian gelateria is the busy coffee bar. There's an ample selection of not bad fruit and cream gelati but for a…
Courmayeur
Friendly, cosy and popular, there's a huge menu of polenta and fontina cheese dishes – add your topping of mushroom, sausage or various other meats. You…
Rome
This renowned pasticceria is celebrated for its tiramisu. Alongside the classic coffee, liqueur and cocoa combination, there are several other versions…
Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands
Hiding in plain sight is unassuming looking da Primo. Don't be fooled, though. On entering you'll find a large canteen-style dining room panelled like the…
