Traditional Italian restaurants in Italy
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Il Tufo Allegro
The aromas emanating from the kitchen door facing Via Zuccarelli should be enough to draw you down to the cavernous dining room, which is carved out of tufa foundations. The chef is known for his menù Goym (Gentiles menu), which features Jewish- influenced dishes such as buglione d'agnello (lamb soup with tomato and bread). You'll find it near Piccola Gerusalemme.
reviewed
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A
Antica Osteria Agania
There are no surprises on the menu here, just simple food offered at good prices. Kick off with an antipasto misto della casa (mixed house antipasto plate) and then take your pick from the robust pastas, soups and mains on offer.
reviewed
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Hostaria del Ceccottino
Nestled in the shadow of the Baroque duomo, Ceccottino subscribes to both the Slow Food philosophy and the Km0 movement. It specialises in pasta, steaks and carpaccio. Tables on the piazza are hotly contested during summer.
reviewed
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B
La Carabaccia
A trio of local women – Sara, Lala and Patrizia – have put their heart and soul into this fantastic trattoria, which is the city's best lunch option. Named after a humble Tuscan vegetable soup, it has a small menu that changes daily according to what local producers are offering and always has vegetarian options. Sit on the front terrace or head indoors to enjoy the Italian folk music played on the sound system.
reviewed
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C
Perucà
The lady owner here is as knowledgeable about regional food and wine as she is enthusiastic, and the food is excellent. Try the house speciality of fagottini del contadino (ravioli with pecorino, pears and saffron cream) with a glass of Fattoria San Donato's Vernaccia – it's a match made in heaven.
reviewed
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D
Ristorante-Enoteca Del Duca
Volterra's only fine-dining establishment serves traditional Tuscan dishes in its vaulted dining areas and lovely rear courtyard. It has an excellent wine list – not surprising considering the owner has his own vineyard (try his Giusto Alle Balze merlot).
reviewed
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E
Giggetto 2
For those on a budget, this simple cafe sits behind its older and better known parent, Giggetto al Portico d’Ottavia. It serves no-nonsense pasta and meat dishes, as well as pizza and very drinkable wine at €8 per bottle.
reviewed
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La Grotta
Facing the High Renaissance Tempio di San Biagio on the road to Chiusi, La Grotta has elegant dining rooms and a gorgeous courtyard garden that's perfect for summer dining. The food is simple but delicious, and service is exemplary. A hint: don't skip dessert.
reviewed
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F
La Torre di Gnicche
Just off Piazza Grande, this is a fine restaurant specialising in traditional local dishes. Its soups are delicious – in summer try pappa al pomodoro (a thick bread and tomato soup), in winter acquacotta (a hearty vegetable soup with bread and egg) and ribollita (a 'reboiled' bean, vegetable and bread soup with black cabbage). Afterwards, choose from the ample range of local pecorino (cheese made from sheep's milk) and cured meats accompanied by a choice red from the extensive wine list.
reviewed
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G
Enoteca a Gambe di Gatto
Renowned throughout the region, exacting husband and wife team of Emanuel (front of house) and Laura (kitchen) travel the country each winter to acquire the best products from organic producers. The daily menu fluctuates wildly, depending on market offerings, and meals start with a complimentary tasting of wine and olive oil. Service stretches the Slow Food philosophy to its limits – don't come here if you're after a quick meal.
reviewed
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H
Ristorante Zeppelin
This natty place has a cool 1920s atmosphere, jazz on the stereo and a long wooden bar where Ingrid Bergman would have felt right at home. It serves creative Umbrian food, including well-priced tasting menus for vegetarians (€25) and children (€18), as well as a set Etruscan menu (€32). Ask about its day-long cooking courses.
reviewed
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I
Enoteca Ai Artisti
Heart-warming pasta and inspired cheeses are paired with exceptional wines (by the glass) by your oenophile hosts. Pavement tables for two make for great people-watching, but book indoor tables for groups.
reviewed
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J
Osteria del Teatro
The walls are clad with photos of actors who have dined here after performing in the nearby theatre, and service is suitably theatrical – waiters wield what could well be the biggest pepper grinder in the world, and blocks of locally produced chocolate are attacked with a butcher's knife for a sweet finale. The menu relies heavily on seasonal local produce.
reviewed
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K
La Cantina di Ninco Nanco
Go down the steep stairs to this great little restaurant housed in a vaulted underground cellar. Decorated with simple rustic charm, it specialises in cooking from the southern region of Basilicata, so expect plenty of delicious salamis, sausages and full-on cheeses. For a taste try the pasta with tomato, guanciale (cured pig’s cheek) and cacciaricotta cheese.
reviewed
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L
Ristorante Cecilia Metella
Near the catacombs of San Callisto, the outside seating at Cecilia Metella is great, set on a low hill under a vine canopy and with glimpses of the jewel-green countryside. Inside, the restaurant resembles a wedding- reception room, but it’s attractive enough, and the food is reasonable, too – the grilled meats are recommended.
reviewed
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M
La Bucaccia
Set in a medieval stable that was incorporated into a Renaissance palazzo, this is an atmospheric and enjoyable dinner venue, but is a bit dark at lunchtime. The set menu (€29) of four courses, one glass of wine and water offers extremely good value.
reviewed
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N
Vecchia Roma
This old-fashioned restaurant is the very picture of formal elegance with chandeliers and gilt-framed oil paintings, and a candle-lit terrace on a picturebook cobbled corner. Impeccably groomed white-jacketed waiters attend the clientele of sparkling celebrities and scheming politicians, serving fabulous summer salads, warming winter polentas and top-drawer pastas.
reviewed
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O
Dal Toscano
Carnivores will adore Dal Toscano, an old-fashioned ristorante that serves top-notch Tuscan food, with an emphasis on superb meats. Start with the hand-cut Tuscan prosciutto, before attempting the colossal char-grilled bistecche alla Fiorentina (Florentine-style steak). You’ll need to book.
reviewed
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Dal Bolognese
The moneyed and models mingle at this historically chic restaurant. Dine inside surrounded by wood panelling and exotic flowers, or outside, people-watching with views over Piazza del Popolo. As the name suggests, Emilia-Romagna dishes are the name of the game; everything is good, but try the tortellini in soup, tagliatelle with ragú, or the damn fine fillet steak.
reviewed
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Q
La Taverna degli Amici
A smart trattoria in a delightful medieval setting, the Taverna sits on a pretty ivy-draped piazza on the edge of the Jewish Ghetto. It serves consistent classics like saltimbocca alla romana (‘leap in the mouth’ veal with sage), plus delicious fish and homemade desserts. There’s also an excellent wine list.
reviewed
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R
Sergio alle Grotte
A flower’s throw from the Campo, Sergio’s is a textbook Roman trattoria: chequered tablecloths, dodgy wall murals, bustling waiters, and steaming plateloads of pasta. A loyal following enjoys classic hearty Roman pastas – cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana – and large steaks grilled over hot coals. In the summer there are tables outside on the cobbled, ivy-hung lane.
reviewed
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S
Da Felice
Locals and foodies swear by this Testaccio stalwart, famous for its traditional Roman cuisine. The decor might be post-industrial chic – exposed brick walls, chequered marble floor, hanging lamps – but the menu is stolidly traditional, following a classic weekly routine. Highlights include the Tuesday tonnarelli cacio e pepe (square-shaped spaghetti with pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper) and the Thursday coda alla vaccinara (oxtail).
reviewed
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Checchino dal 1887
A pig’s whisker from the city’s former slaughterhouse, Checchino is one of the grander restaurants specialising in the quinto quarto (fifth quarter – or insides of the animal). It was here that the Roman recipe for coda all vaccinara (oxtail stew) was first developed and it’s here that you’ll get Rome’s best rigatoni alla gricia (pasta tubes with pecorino cheese, black pepper and pancetta) according to the local Gambero Rosso food critics.
reviewed
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U
Piperno
This Roman-Jewish institution is tucked away in a quiet corner of the Ghetto. It’s formal without being stuffy, a wood-panelled restaurant of the old school, where white-clad waiters serve wonderful deep-fried filetti di baccalà (cod fillets) and tagliolini alla pescatora (long ribbon pasta with seafood). To finish, try the delicious palle del Nonno (‘grandpa’s balls’ or ricotta and chocolate puffs). Booking is essential for Sunday.
reviewed
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Sora Lella
You can’t beat the romance of Sora Lella’s setting on the river Tiber’s tiny island. Ring the doorbell to gain entrance to this timeless institution, named after the much-loved Roman TV star (the owner’s mother), and family-run since 1940. The classic Roman menu has some twists, including some wonderful fish dishes – try the standout paccheri con ragù di pesce (giant pasta tubes served with a tomato seafood sauce).
reviewed