Things to do in Trani
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Chiesa Sant'Anna
The tiny streets of Trani's historic centre are lined with grand palazzi. Strike off Via Beltrani down Via Leopardi and you'll find yourself in the old Jewish Ghetto, one of Trani's powerful immigrant communities. The Chiesa Sant'Anna is only one of four synagogues that once serviced the community. They were all converted to churches in the 14th century but there has been talk of re-converting Sant'Anna into a Jewish cultural centre.
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Cathedral
Surrounded by a rare light and space, the dramatic seafront cathedral is dedicated to St Nicholas the Pilgrim, famous for being foolish. The Greek Christian wandered through Puglia, crying ‘ Kyrie eleison ’ (Greek for ‘Lord, have mercy’). First thought to be a simpleton, he was revered after his death (aged 19) after several miracles attributed to him occurred.
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Al Buco Preferito
It doesn't look like much, but Al Buco has a port side location and is frantically busy due to the fact that it serves up myriad different varieties of wafer thin pizza on wooden boards. Most folk sink a few cocktails at the nearby Caribbean Bar and then try and cajole the staff to find them a seat amid the crowded tables.
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Osteria La Banchina
Packed amid a host of other restaurant hopefuls overlooking the port, La Banchina is a cut above the competition with a shaded outdoor eating area in the shadow of the Ognissanti church. Fresh fish is the order of the day - grilled, baked in a salt crust or fried in a light batter.
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Museo Diocesano
To get a closer look at the ingenuity of Puglian-Romanesque sculpture its worth a quick trip to the Museo Diocesano where you'll find a fantastic collection of friezes, architraves, tombstones and capitals alongside archaeological finds and more typical church furnishings.
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Ai Platini
Away from the buzz of the portside, Ai Platani is a nice retreat with a more intimate and romantic atmosphere. The décor is rustic-chic and although the food is still very much focused on the sea, the homemade gnocchetti and ragu (tomato sauce) is a nice alternative.
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Castle
Two hundred metres north of the cathedral is Trani’s other major landmark, the vast, almost modernist Swabian castle built by Frederick II in 1233. Charles V later strengthened the fortifications, and it was used as a prison from 1844 to 1974.
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Villa Comunale
In the early evening the passeggiata will be in full swing around the port. Join the crowds and make your way around to the Villa Comunale, Trani's lovely public park. It has absolutely gorgeous views of the cathedral with the sun setting behind it.
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Corteinfiore
Enjoys a light summery feel with a marquee-conservatory arrangement, wooden decking, buttercup-yellow tablecloths and bevies of friendly waiters. The wines are excellent and the cooking is delicious, with dishes such as pasta with monkfish and clams.
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Osteria Ferro e Fuoco
This new kid on the block serves reliably good dishes including fried ricotta antipasti and roasted veal chops. It has a charming position on the piazza with terrace seating overlooking time-worn traditional buildings adorned with washing.
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Orangerie
Drink with the beautiful people in Piazza Quercia with a front row view of the port. Although this place is primarily a bar it also has a good restaurant upstairs where trad dishes get an interesting makeover at the hands of Luca Depalo.
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La Lampara
The nearest thing Trani has to a club. Although it has a fairly fancy restaurant, it's best to stick to the neon-tinged bar and dancing, which takes place on Thursday, Friday and Saturday night. For popular gigs you have to book.
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La Darsena
Renowned for its seafood, La Darsena is housed in a waterfront palazzo. Outside tables are shielded by thick greenery while inside photos of old Puglia cover the walls beneath a huge wrought-iron dragon chandelier.
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Scolanova Church
Scolanova Church was one of four former synagogues in the ancient Jewish quarter. They were all converted to churches in the 14th century. Inside is a beautiful Byzantine painting of Madonna dei Martiri.
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Ognissanti Church
The 12th-century Ognissanti Church was built by the Knights Templar. Here Norman knights swore allegiance to Bohemond I of Antioch, their leader, before setting off on the First Crusade.
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Torrente Antico
Also recommended is Torrente Antico, which has an inventive menu and an excellent wine list.
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