Things to do in Murgia Plateau & Trulli Country
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Trullo Sovrano
In the modern part of town, the 18th- century Trullo Sovrano is the only two-floor trullo, built by a wealthy priest’s family. It’s a small museum giving something of the atmosphere of trullo life, with sweet, rounded rooms which include a re-created bakery, bedroom and kitchen. The souvenir shop here has a wealth of literature on the town and surrounding area.
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Il Trullo d'Oro
Hidden behind the main drag in the new town is this cute trullo restaurant. Start with a dizzying array of stuzzichini (literally 'stimulants') - fried black olives and green peppers, eggplant, wild mushrooms and fried dough-balls - before ploughing through generous plates of pasta and on to thin salsiccie sausages or morsels of veal wrapped in pancetta.
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Trattoria Amatulli
Excellent trattoria with a cheerily cluttered interior papered with photos of smiley diners, plus superb down-to-earth dishes like orecchietta al ragù con carne (‘little ears’ pasta in a meat-and-tomato based sauce). Wash it down with the surprisingly drinkable house wine costing the lordly sum of €4 a litre.
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La Cantina
Although tourists have discovered this place, it has maintained the high standards established back in 1958. There are just seven tables and one frenetic waiter, who serves dishes like tagliolina (fettuccine-style pasta) with porcini mushrooms and chestnuts, grilled meats and superb seasonal vegetables.
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Il Poeta Contadino
The dining room here has a medieval banqueting feel with its sumptuous decor and chandeliers. Although the tasting menu will set you back a cool €1000, you can dine for a lot less on dishes like guinea fowl with goose ham and black truffle (€23) or aubergine ravioli, seafood sauce and courgette julienne (€15).
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Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale
This tiny little hostelry serves up magical food. The menu includes plenty of vegetarian options, like frittelle di verdure miste profumate alla menta su salsa de yogurt (vegetable fritter with a yoghurt and mint sauce). The service is attentive, and the atmosphere deeply contented.
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E
Kave Club
A modern café/bar right on the main piazza. The in-crowd comes here to watch the scene with a generous glass of wine and large plates of aperitivi. Service is terrible but that doesn't seem to deter anyone. There's a good selection of salads, cheese and meat plates.
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Osteria del Tempo Perso
A sophisticated rustic restaurant in a former bakery, this laid-back place serves great Pugliese food, specialising in roasted meats. To get here, face the cathedral’s south wall and turn right through two archways into Largo Giuseppe Spennati, then follow the signs to the restaurant.
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Museo di Cività Preclassiche della Murgia
The Museo di Cività Preclassiche della Murgia, in the Convento delle Monacelle, is most famous for the 25,000-year-old star of the show: Delia. She was pregnant at the time of her death and her well-preserved skeleton was found in a local cave.
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Porta Nova
This restaurant has a wonderful location on the old city wall. Revel in the rolling views from the terrace or relax in the elegant interior while you feast on top-notch local cuisine, with fish and seafood the speciality. Try the prawns from Gallipoli.
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Chiesa Sant'Antonio
One last bit of trulli madness is the Chiesa Sant'Antonio a trullo-shaped church at the top of Rione Monti. It was built with donations from American émigrés and is topped by a trullo dome measuring 19.8m.
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Cooperativa Agricola Sololio
Ostuni is surrounded by olive groves so this is the place to buy some of the region’s DOC ‘Collina di Brindisi’ – either delicate, medium or strong – direct from producers such as Cooperativa Agricola Sololio.
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Due Gnelli
Step into this shiny black-and-white dining space to enjoy surprisingly traditional dishes, like orecchiette alle cime di rape (‘little ears’ pasta with turnip tops) and fritto misto (fried seafood).
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Ciacco
Ciacco is a traditional restaurant with white-clad tables and a cosy fireplace, serving up Puglian cuisine in a modern key. It’s tucked down a narrow pedestrian lane a couple of streets in from the Chiesa del Carmine.
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New Town
After battling the crowds in the trulli zone you may need a break in the relative sanity of the new town. The best time to come is the early evening when everyone is out for the lively passeggiata.
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Il Ritrovo degli Amici
This excellent restaurant, with stone walls and vaulting, has a convivial atmosphere oiled by the region’s Spumante. Dishes are traditional with salamis and sausages as the specialities.
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Villaggio In
These charming arched apartments are located in original centro storico homes with steep stairs and small rooms. Antiques and whitewashed walls complete the traditional look.
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Museo del Territorio
The farming history of the town is nicely explained in the Museo del Territorio, a grand two-storey trullo built in 1780.
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Fruit and Vegetable Market
A very good fruit and vegetable market along the main drag of Largo Martellotta every Thursday.
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Rione Aia Piccola
To the east the Rione Aia Piccola is much less commercialised with only 400 trulli.
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