Teatro Petruzelli

Lonely Planet review

Of all the grand theatres, it is the Teatro Petruzelli which dominates the hearts of the Barese opera-going public. It is a gorgeously grand Art Noveau music hall, with an enormous frescoed cupola, velvet seats, cherry-wood stage and golden cherubs. The opening night in February 1903 squeezed in an ecstatic crowd of 3200 people, and there was 'not a theatre box, not a seat, not a single empty place in the loggia' the newspapers reported the next day.

In the decades that followed, the theatre established itself as one of the great opera houses of Italy alongside La Scala in Milan, Teatro San Carlo in Naples and Teatro Massimo in Palermo. Aside from the works of Italian composers such as Mascagni and Respighi, the Petruzzelli saw an illustrious list of performers over the years, including the likes of Frank Sinatra, Rudolf Nureyev, Liza Minnelli, Riccardo Muti, Luciano Pavarotti and even Freddie Mercury. It was the pride and joy of the city, its cultural compass and most dashing landmark. But on the evening of 26 October 1991 the city's most beautiful building suffered from a devastating arson attack which reduced all the seats, carpets, balconies and putti to ash, leaving the skeleton of the cupola yawning aloft like a giant spider web. Now, 16 years after the terrible fire the theatre still stands derelict, despite plans approved in 1998 for its reconstruction and some 20 billion euros earmarked to cover the costs. Part of the problems have been design related, but the main issue is the city council's insistence that the theatre's family sell the theatre back to the city before funds can be released for its renovation. The family maintain that the sum proposed is not enough and so the theatre's rehabilitation remains on hold despite a promised completion date of 2010.