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San Bernardino alle Ossa
Don't look now, but there are Milanese clamping onto window ledges with their teeth here as though their lives depend on it. Luckily, that's not the case: all of them were long dead when their skeletons were repurposed to make rococo crown mouldings of skulls in this exquisitely morbid 17th-century chapel, through the main church on your right.
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San Maurizio
Through a door by the altar lies Milan's hidden crown jewel: the restored 16th-century royal chapel. Bernardino Luini's breathtaking frescoes immortalise the star of Milan's literary scene at the time, Ippolita Sforza, and her family, alongside amazingly blissful martyred women saints - note Santa Lucia calmly holding her lost eyes, and Santa Agata casually carrying her breasts on a platter.
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