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San Lorenzo alle Colonne
Like charming old gents chatting on the front steps weekdays, this place has only got better-looking since the fall of Rome. A freestanding row of 16 Corinthian columns salvaged from Milan's pagan past hints at the crumbling Roman grandeur inside, including the octagonal Cappella di Sant'Aquilino's expressive 4th-century mosaics of big-eared saints.
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