Is this the ultimate in Milan-style Japanese dining? The dramatically designed space puts the spotlight on the kitchen which prepares traditional sashimi but also a variety of creative raw and rare dishes. Japanese technique dominates, while the menu flirts with Italian flavours and ingredients (including a carpaccio -style Angus beef). Meanwhile, shōchū cocktails appear to be the new negroni . Bookings are hard to come by; if you miss out, opt for some stylishly got-up takeaway.