Italian restaurants in Milan
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A
Antica Trattoria della Pesa
A recipe for instant nostalgia: take the landmark building where Ho Chi Minh stayed in the ‘30s, add literary types from nearby publishing houses, mix with comfort food - osso bucco on polenta topped with gremolata, bollito misto (boiled meat) and cotoletta (crumbed veal cutlets) - spice it up with some red, and finish with a sigh and smooth, boozy zabaglione.
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Obika Brera
Milan’s main branch of the Obika empire is stylish, with glass-box displays and French army chairs. Ordering is simple. Take your pick of mozzarella di bufula (buffalo milk mozzarella balls), from sweet to smoked, then choose an accompaniment (ranging from salads to prosciutto). The €8 aperitivo here is a shockingly good deal, an all-you-can-eat array of bufalastrewn salads, cold meats, salmon and simple, delicious pastas, and a sbagliato (a sparkling wine, Antico Rosso and Campari cocktail).
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B
Trattoria degli Orti
The menu is just a formality; dishes come along without prior consultation. Get ready for platters of gratined mussels, sardines in saôr (a sweet-and-sour onion jam), whitebait fritters, anchovy-stuffed zucchini flowers, homemade fish ravioli and crispy fried octopus. The lunchtime crowd of silver-haired, ties-off businessmen don’t seem in the usual hurry to get back to work; the kitchen might have one more surprise in store.
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C
Al Pont de Ferr
Navigli’s osterie (restaurants/bars) can often disappoint on the food front, but Al Pont de Ferr lifts the game. Its casual charm can make you wonder if the prices aren’t tourist-inflated. Look again; you’ll see attention to detail and interesting regional ingredients, such as rabbit stews, fonduta piemontese (fondue), purée of cardoons and baccalà (dried cod) on a soup of fennel.
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D
Cantina della Vetra
This country-style place with big windows overlooking the Piazza Vetra sports gingham tablecloths but otherwise underplays the rustic element. The salumi (mixed cured meat) platter includes a mortadella tartufata, lardo and a pancetta coppata as well as regional salami. It’s known for its wine cellar as much as for the hearty regional staples, and books out most nights.
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Il Baretto al Baglioni
When you’re feeling a bit bespoke worsted rather than all-new-season-it-bag, trad Baretto does the trick, even if this incarnation in the Hotel Baglioni is a relatively recent one. The typical Milanese repertoire here includes not only cotoletta and osso bucco but the unforgettable riso salto (panfried risotto cakes). A not-so-secret door leads from Via della Spiga 6.
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E
Da Giacomo
This place may look like a ye-olde-worlde tourist trap but is perennially popular with Milanese movers and shakers. They come for the sunny Tuscan vibe and fresh, simple pastas such as spaghetti with sea urchin or linguine with scampi and zucchini flowers, and the wonderful seasonal truffle dishes. Seafood is a feature, along with a killer Fiorentina steak.
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F
Chatulle
The white on white thing here is so relentless, you might think you’ve ended up at one of Puffy’s summer dos, or in the Queen of Narnia’s palace. The food, although served on very large, see-through plates, is surprisingly straightforward, classic Italian (in all its many hues). Staff are welcoming; patrons dress to match the surrounds.
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G
Osteria del Binari
Crashing an Italian wedding is the only other way you'd come by such heaping platters of handmade pasta, select cuts of meat and home-baked pastries. With Tuscan wine and loved ones gathered around, someone's bound to feel a toast coming on - quick, duck out back and join the lawn bowling already in progress.
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H
Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone
Prosecco and trofie pesto (Ligurian pasta twists) in an ivy-covered courtyard surrounded by Gucci and Dior: yep, you’re in Milan. Lunch among models trying not to appear terminally bored by their banker boyfriends. The smallgoods and wines in the attached shop are pricey but difficult to pass up.
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I
La Brisa
Whether you've come to this garden hideaway for work or play is irrelevant, because once the tenderloin with pomegranate seeds and arugula arrives, it's pure pleasure. Watch as Lombard wines loosen the power ties of fellow patrons here with the around €20 fixed-price lunch - or better yet, join in.
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J
Peck Italian Bar
Peck’s dining room lets quality produce shine with staples like cotoletto, risotto and roasts done with fabulously fresh, well-sourced ingredients, if not a smidgen of contemporary flair. The room too is a picture of restraint, with wines by the glass administered by bow-tied waiters.
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K
Il Teatro
Service in Il Teatro’s lovely but formal dining room within the Four Seasons Hotel is disarmingly, unexpectedly warm and the menu sings with surprisingly smart, unfussy offerings and regional flair. Artisanal products and seasonal ingredients feature and there’s a daily tasting menu too.
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L
Luca e Andrea Café-Bar
An embarrassment of riches at starving-artist prices, with generous pasta and risotto specials served canalside. The gnocchi with gorgonzola washed down with a quarter-carafe of the house red could inspire your next performance art piece, if you could only move off your chair.
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M
L’Antico Ristorante Boeucc
Milan’s oldest restaurant (since 1696) serves up works of Lombard culinary art, from crespelle al prosciutto (a kind of cross between pasta and crepe with ham) to a trancio di salmone al pepe verde (a slice of salmon with green pepper) or Florentine steak.
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N
Latteria
If you can snare a seat in this tiny and ever-popular restaurant, you’ll find dishes like fusilli with herbed ricotta and spring onions, a faro (spelt) salad with buffalo mozzarella and tomato or riso alsalto (risotto fritters) among the ever-changing, mostly organic, menu.
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O
Trattoria di Giannino
Dark wood chairs against a subdued palette of white and brick red walls makes for an endearingly posh dining room. Serves are large and there are absolutely no surprises on the menu (osso bucco, cotoletta, warm seafood salad), and that’s why everyone likes it.
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P
Piccola Ischia
The Campanian potato croquettes, arancini (rice-stuffed pastries) and zucchini blossoms do nicely for starters, but the main attraction is the pizzas.
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Q
La Cantina di Manuela
This Sempione branch of the well-known enoteca chain has a lovely light dining room and charming staff. (Also at Via Carlo Poerio 3.)
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