Pane e Acqua

restaurants / Italian

Pane e Acqua information

Location
Milan , Italy
Address
Via Matteo Bandello 14
Telephone
+390 2 481 98 622
Getting there
Underground Rail: Conciliazione
More information
www.paneacqua.com
Opening hours
7.30-11pm Mon, 9am-11pm Tue-Sat
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Super-stylist Rossana Orlandi has transformed a former corner tabacchi (corner shop) into Milan’s most original and intriguing restaurant. Stark oversized clocks and raw concrete walls are softened by terrazzo floors and an ever-changing explosion of seasonal colour and texture. (For spring, shocking pink blowsy roses decorate the bar, and farmhouse chairs are painted to match.) The food is complex but never modish: a basil-scented cereal and seafood soup is served in steep-sided beaten pewter bowls, hand-cut spaghetti with baccalà (dried cod) and Taggiasche olives is laced with a rich, briny stock. Desserts are equally simple and spot-on: a rich splodge of buffalo ricotta is daubed with dark caramel and strewn with bitter chocolate nibs. Service is both kindly and unusually knowledgeable.