Lago d'Iseo

Introducing Lago d'Iseo

Less than 100km from both Bergamo and Brescia, Lago d’Iseo is the least-known of the lakes. Shut in by mountains, the lake’s eastern shore is comprised mainly of tunnels, but the western shore offers an extraordinarily beautiful drive through the narrow rock overhangs (beep your horn before you round the blind bends).

Approaching Lago d’Iseo from the southwest brings you to Sarnico (population 5880), with its lovely Liberty villas and a smattering of hotels and restaurants.

At the lake’s southeastern edge, the main town, Iseo (population 8380), is a pleasant enough spot, though there are few sights, other than a 2-sq-km protected wetland, formed from 18th-century peat beds. In late spring the pools are smothered in water lilies. Iseo’s tourist office (030 98 02 09; Lungolago Marconi 2; 9am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Easter-Sep) stocks information about the numerous walking opportunities around the lake and hinterland, and has a list of campgrounds.

From Iseo you can catch a boat to Monte Isola (www.monteisola.com), Europe’s largest lake island, at 5 sq km. Only the doctor, police and the priest are allowed to drive on the island, making its little fishing village a peaceful retreat. You can walk or bike the 15km-long trail that encircles the island, and pitch up at its simple campground Campeggio Monte Isola (030 982 52 21; Via Croce 144; per person/tent from €4.20/7.80; year-round).

The Franciacorta – a patch of rolling countryside synonymous with its renowned wines – spills around the lake shore as you head north.

Perched on the lake’s northwestern tip, the port town of Lovere (population 5430) is a gem, with a working harbour and a wealth of walking trails nearby. Its cobbled old town curves around the harbour, shadowed by a leafy lakefront promenade. On the hill at the western end of the harbour is the lake’s hostel, Ostello del Porto (035 983 52 90; Via Paglia 70; dm/d €16.50/39; mid-Mar–Oct). Housed in a renovated steel factory (accessed by a narrow pedestrian ramp from the road), its ensuite rooms all have lake views.

Hotel Lovere (035 96 03 96; www.hotellovere.it; Via Marconi 97; s €40-80, d €60-100), at the eastern edge of town, is a gleaming-new option offering outstanding value for money. It has sophisticated, neutral-toned rooms (some overlooking the lake), wi-fi, and an equally outstanding restaurant, Pinocchio (pizzas from €5, mains €8-15). Delicious pizzas, pastas and lake fish are served in its artistic dining rooms, and in fine weather, on its panoramic balcony. Hotel guests get a 10% discount on meals, and service at both the restaurant and hotel is flawless.

North of Lago d’Iseo, the Valle Camonica weaves its way to the vast Parco dell’Adamello and, further north, to the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio . The area borders Trentino-Alto Adige and takes in the better parts of the Lombard Alps. The two national parks offer many walks and are dotted with Alpine huts where you can rest up.

About halfway between Darfo and Edolo, the Parco Nazionale delle Incisioni Rupestri (0364 4 21 40; adult/child €5/2.50; 9am-6.30pm Tue-Sun summer, 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri & 9am-4.30pm Sat & Sun winter), at Capo di Ponte, is a 30-hectare open-air museum containing a representative array of rock engravings going as far back as the Bronze Age.

The area north of Edolo offers some reasonable winter skiing, particularly near Ponte di Legno, at the northern end of the valley, and the nearby Passo del Tonale. Brescia’s tourist office stocks plenty of walking, camping and mountain-hut information. In the valley there are tourist offices at Darfo Boario Terme (0364 53 16 09; Piazza Einaudi 2) ,Edolo (0364 7 10 65; Piazza Martiri Libertà 2) and Ponte di Legno (0364 9 11 22; Corso Milano 41); call ahead to check opening hours.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009