Trattoria della Raibetta
The most authentic Genoese food can be procured in the family-run joints hidden in the warren of streets near the cathedral. The Raibetta's menu is unfussy and fish-biased. Try the seafood with riso venere (a local black rice) or the signature homemade trofiette al pesto . The octopus salad makes a good overture, while the wine is a toss-up between 200 different vintages.