Things to do in Piedmont
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Sacra di San Michele
Brooding above the road 14km from Turin is the Sacra di San Michele, a Gothic-Romanesque abbey that has kept sentry atop Monte Pirchiriano (962m) since the 10th century. Look out for the whimsical ‘Zodiac Door’, a 12th-century doorway sculpted with putti (cherubs) pulling each other’s hair. To get to the abbey get off at Sant’Ambrogio station and hike up a steep path for 1½ hours. Alternatively, there’s a special bus from Avigliana train station six times a day from May to September. Concerts are held on Saturday evenings in summer; ask for details at the tourist office in Avigliana, 12km west.
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Museo Nazionale del Cinema
A decade ago, the tower became home to the multifloored Museo Nazionale del Cinema, which takes you on a fantastic tour through cinematic history – from the earliest magic lanterns, stereoscopes and other optical toys to the present day. Movie memorabilia on display includes Marilyn Monroe’s black lace bustier, Peter O’Toole’s robe from Lawrence of Arabia and the coffin used by Bela Lugosi’s Dracula. At the heart of the museum, the vast Temple Hall is surrounded by 10 interactive ‘chapels’ devoted to various film genres.
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Basilica di Superga
Basilica di Superga became the final resting place of the Savoys, whose lavish tombs make for interesting viewing, as does the dome here. In 1949 a plane carrying the entire Turin football team crashed into the basilica in thick fog, killing all on board. Their tomb rests at the rear of the church.
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Fiorio
There’s something evocative about inhabiting Mark Twain’s old window seat as you contemplate the gilded interior of a cafe where 19th-century students once plotted revolutions and the Count of Cavour deftly played whist. And all this before your coffee has even arrived.
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Sfashion
Turinese comic TV presenter Piero Chiamretti’s latest culinary offering is this funky postmodern set-up with retro toys adorning its outlandish interior, and dishes such as mussels in tomato sauce or penne with zucchini.
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Grom
The first-ever outlet of this Slow Food–affiliated ice cream, renowned for organic flavours such as green tea, was started here in Turin. There’s another branch at Via Accademia delle Scienze 4, which keeps the same hours.
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Lobelix
Beneath the trees on Piazza Savoia, the terrace here is a favourite place for an aperitivo – its buffet banquet is one of Turin’s most extravagant.
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Castello di Rivoli
A worthwhile trip further afield, the star of Turin’s contemporary art scene is the 17th-century Castello di Rivoli. It’s a striking contrast to the contemporary art housed inside at the Museo d’Arte Contemporanea. Works by Franz Ackermann, Gilbert and George, and Frank Gehry would have been beyond the wildest imagination of the Savoy family, who resided at this site from the 14th century onwards. The castle is outside central Turin in the town of Rivoli (not to be confused with the city’s metro station named Rivoli).
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Eataly
Adjacent to the congress centre is the Slow Food Movement’s ‘supermarket’, Eataly. This vast converted factory now houses a staggering array of Slow Food–affiliated food and beverages, with a separate area for each, including cheeses, breads, meats, fish, pasta, chocolate and much more. The best time to visit is around 12.30pm to 2.30pm, when each area has its own little restaurant serving lunch. There’s also a high-end restaurant here, for which you’ll need to book ahead.
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Da Giancarlo
Watch a mixed crowd (dreadlocked, suited, you name it) go right off after hours, with plenty of swaying (to the music, the fumo (pot) and the booze) and lots of laughs. An institution of the best kind - and recommmended by many as the proper way to end a real night out. Grungy, grotty and great.
Be prepared to explain that you're not a member of ARCI (Associazione Ricreativa e Culturale Italiana) at the door - but flash your driving licence from home and you're fine.
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Piazza Duomo-la Piola
The best of both worlds are bivouacked in this two-in-one, suit-all-budgets culinary extravaganza in Alba’s main square. Downstairs, La Piola sports local blackboard specials, such as vitello tonnato, that change daily and allow diners to create their own plates. Upstairs, the theme goes more international in chef Enrico Crippa’s Michelin-starred Piazza Duomo, where you can eat creative food beneath colourful wall frescoes painted by contemporary artist Francesco Clemente.
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Museo della Sindone
Shroud fiends will go gaga over the Museo della Sindone; however, despite its informative displays and unexpected 'shroud' paraphernalia - such as the first camera used to photograph the cloth (1898), and test tubes used to store traces of human blood removed from the shroud in 1978 - the museum does little to unravel the mystery of the Holy Shroud. Guided tours are in Italian only; ask for an English-language audioguide, which is free.
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Porta di Savona
An economical, low-on-pretension trattoria with a deserved reputation for superb agnolotti al sugo arrosto (Piedmontese ravioli in a meat gravy), and gnocchi di patate al gorgonzola. The mains – including bollito misto alla Piedmontese (boiled meat and vegetable stew) – are equally memorable. Be patient: the food takes a while to arrive, probably because it’s 100% homemade and 100% Piedmontese.
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Duomo di San Giovanni
Turin's Duomo di San Giovanni, built between 1491 and 1498 on the site of three 14th-century basilicas, is the home of the famous Shroud of Turin. A copy of the cloth is on permanent display in front of the cathedral altar. Just to the north lies the remains of a 1st-century Roman amphitheatre, while a little further to the northwest lies Porta Palatina, the red-brick remains of a Roman-era gate.
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Palazzo Reale
Statues of the mythical twins Castor and Pollux guard the entrance to the Palazzo Reale and, according to local legend, also watch over the border between the sacred (‘white magic’) and diabolical (‘black magic’) halves of the city. Built for Carlo Emanuele II around 1646, its lavishly decorated rooms house an assortment of furnishings, porcelain and other knick-knacks.
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Locanda da Peiu
Only the best and freshest local ingredients are used at Locanda da Peiu, located 3km from the town centre, but within an easy five-minute bus ride (ask for schedules when you book). The €35 set menus are outstanding value, including antipasti, first and second plates, dessert and wine. Quality dishes include gnocchi with Castelmagno cheese, served in a hard-baked bread basket.
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Parco Valentino
Walking southwest along the Po river brings you to Castello del Valentino (closed to the public), a mock chateau built in the 17th century. The 550,000 sq-metre French-style Parco Valentino surrounding the chateau opened in 1856 and is filled with joggers, promenaders and cafes night and day (though take care on your own here late at night).
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Kuoki
Head around the corner from the Mole Antonelliana to this intriguing spot run by Giorgio Armani’s former personal chef, Toni Vitiello. At high communal tables, you can dine on Italian blackboard specials, or sushi bar twists such as a Kuoki roll (salmon or tuna with ricotta, olive oil and basil). Toni’s other fusion creations include chicken in Coca-Cola with orange peel.
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Panoramic Lift
The Mole Antonelliana Tower's glass Panoramic Lift whisks you 85m up through the centre of the museum to the Mole's roof terrace in 59 seconds. Fair warning if you're even slightly prone to vertigo: it's suspended only by cables, so when you look out it's as if you're free-floating in space. The 360-degree views from the outdoor viewing deck are dazzling by day or night.
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Chiesa della Gran Madre di Dio
This church was built between 1818 and 1831 to commemorate the return of Vittorio Emanuele I from exile. The steps leading up to the church were the ones Michael Caine famously careered down in the cult film, The Italian Job, while some mystics would have you believe that the Holy Grail is actually buried under the church. Its interior is closed to the public.
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Pizzeria Stars & Roses
The list of pizzas on offer at this stylish place is lengthy and adventurous, with toppings including salmon and whisky, or caviar and vodka. Each of its rooms is themed according to colour (red, white, silver, pink, blue and black), so you can choose to suit the occasion. Police mugshots of erstwhile arrested movie stars (Hugh Grant, Al Pacino, et al) line the walls.
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Pizzeria Il Rospetto
There are hundreds of pizzerias in Turin and the nuances of each are never the same, but if you took a poll, the hole-in-the-wall Il Rospetto (little toad) in San Salvario would definitely be competing for top honours. Fast, crowded and insanely popular, it has over 30 tasty thin-crust flavours to sink your teeth into here – including the dessert-style Nutella pizza!
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McArthur Glen
McArthur Glen...doesn't sound very Italian, does it? OK, so it's part of a European designer discount chain, but don't let that stop you. Shopping-til-you drop is a universal activity, after all. And when you've got names like Versace, Guess and Diesel in the one spot, selling last season's stock at bargain prices, there's just one word for it...bellissimo!
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Osteria la Vecchia Carrozza
You could be sharing the room with a quartet of nuns or a birthday party of celebrating college graduates at this local spot bedecked with white tablecloths and polished wine glasses, but characterised by plenty of down-to-earth Piedmontese ambience. This being Asti, the food is infused with truffles, Barolo wine and a formidable agnolotti di astigiana.
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Vincafé
It’s hip, but by no means exclusive. Anyone can sup on a glass of wine here, as long as you can squeeze through the door (it’s small and popular) and have got the time and/or expertise to sift through a list of over 350 varieties. If in doubt, choose Barolo. Downstairs, in a cool vaulted stone cellar, the restaurant serves up huge healthy salads and pastas.
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