Sights in Castelli Romani
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Museo delle Navi Romani
The smaller of the two volcanic lakes in the Castelli Romani, Lago di Nemi was the centre of a cult to the goddess Diana in ancient times, and favourite holiday spot of the emperor Caligula. The Museo delle Navi Romani on the shore was built by Mussolini to house two Roman boats salvaged from the lake in 1932. These dated from Caligula’s time but were tragically destroyed by fire in 1944 – what you see now are scale models.
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Museo Archeologico di Sperlonga
Other than the beach, the Sperlonga’s main attraction is the Museo Archeologico di Sperlonga, home to sculptures and masks dating from the 2nd century BC and a cave with a circular pool used by the emperor Tiberius. The remains of his villa are in front of the cave.
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Parco Nazionale del Circeo
The Parco Nazionale del Circeo is a lovely 800-hectare area of sand dunes, rocky coastline, forest and wetlands. The visitor centre (0773 51 13 85) can provide details on local activities, including fishing, bird-watching, walking and cycling.
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Grottaferrata Abbey
This 15th-century abbey was founded in 1004. The church interior resembles an incense-perfumed jewellery box, and Mass is particularly atmospheric. The congregation of Greek monks wear distinctive flat-topped black caps.
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Tusculum
If you have a car, head up to the ruins of ancient Tusculum. All that remains of this once-imposing 4th-century-BC town is a small amphitheatre, a crumbling villa and a small stretch of road leading up to the city, but it’s a lovely spot for a walk, and the views are stupendous.
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Nemi
The town of Nemi is perched high above Lago di Nemi, the smaller of the two volcanic lakes in the Castelli Romani. This area was the centre of a cult to the goddess Diana in ancient times, and favourite holiday spot of the emperor Caligula. Today it’s a popular getaway from Rome, and famous for its wild strawberries, best eaten in the early summer. There’s a great museum here, the small Museo delle Navi Romani on the shore of the lake. This was built by Mussolini to house two incredibly preserved wooden Roman boats, dating from Caligula’s reign, that had been discovered and salvaged from the lake in 1932. These were tragically destroyed by fire in 1944 – what you see…
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Lago Albano
This great azure expanse is simply glorious for a summer swim, and cafes and boating-hire places dot its banks. Filling two volcanic craters, the lake is about 3.5km by 2.3km.
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Grottaferrata Abbey
Another trip that requires you to have your own transport is Grottaferrata, where there’s a 15th-century abbey, founded in 1004. The church interior resembles an incense-perfumed jewellery box, and Mass is particularly atmospheric. The congregation of Greek monks wear distinctive flat-topped black caps.
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Frascati
A villa perches over the town above ornamental gardens, its flat-fronted façade like an expensive stage set. It’s the 16th-century Villa Aldobrandini, designed by Giacomo della Porta and built by Carlo Maderno; it’s closed to the public, but you can visit the impressive gardens. These are a fine example of an early Italian Baroque garden, with the palace as the focal point, set dramatically into the wooded hill. Water features in the garden were designed by Orazio Olivieri, though many of the fountains no longer function.
Also worth a visit in Frascati, sharing the stable building with the tourist office, is the new Museo Tuscolano with artfully lit republican and…
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Castel Gandolfo
Continuing southwest brings you to Castel Gandolfo, an impressive, dome-capped hilltop borgo (small village) overlooking Lago di Albano. This is the pope’s summer residence, which, although closed to the public, still attracts hordes of tourists to the impressive town square. The small town is a very pretty place for a wander, with views opening out across the lake below.
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