Painters and sculptors are all too often awarded the credit for ushering in the Renaissance, but in reality it was their architectural comrades who first sought to emulate the ancients, forging a strong and easily accessible visual language to celebrate humanity’s achievements. The result was Florence’s extraordinary and breathlessly exciting portfolio of churches and chapels. Everyone knows Brunelleschi’s dome (stagger up to the top to see the city laid breathtakingly – literally so – at your feet). But alongside this celebrity of a Florentine cathedral is a treasure trove of bijou, exquisitely frescoed chapels, hidden in Renaissance palaces and down dank medieval alleys, and guaranteed to knock the socks of the most ardent of heathens and atheists. Amen.