Architecture sights in Florence
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A
Basilica di Santa Croce
Behind an opulent candy-coloured facade (actually a 19th-century neo-Gothic addition), the nave of this Gothic church, built between 1294 and 1385, is surprisingly austere. EM Forster described the interior as ‘barnlike’, because of the timber, A-frame–style ceiling and general lack of finery. But lurking in the transept is a series of chapels brightly decked out with masterly fresco cycles. Unfortunately, only parts of Giotto’s cycle depicting the life of St Francis survive. Those by his loyal pupil Taddeo Gaddi are in much better shape, as are Taddi’s Last Supper in the refectory – considered his masterpiece – and his Crucifixion in the sacristy. The basil…
reviewed
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B
Certosa di Galluzzo
Dominating the village of Galluzzo, about 3km south along Via Senese from Porta Romana, is this quite remarkable 14th-century monastery. The Carthusian order of monks once had 50 monasteries in Italy. Of these, only two are now inhabited by monks of that order. The Certosa passed into Cistercian hands in 1955.
The Certosa can only be visited with a guide (reckon on about 45 minutes) who will take you first to the Gothic hall of the Palazzo degli Studi, now graced by a small collection of art, including five somewhat weathered frescoes by Pontormo. It is a little depressing to think that, until Napoleon's troops looted the place in the early 19th century, more than 500 imp…
reviewed
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C
Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore
Dominating the Florence skyline is the russet-domed Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, with its furiously pretty façade in pink, white and green marble. Begun in 1296 by Arnolfo di Cambio, the world’s fourth-largest cathedral took almost 150 years to complete. The restrained interior is a surprise after the tumultuous decoration of the façade. It’s also surprisingly secular in places (a sizeable chunk of the cathedral was not paid for by the church). It’s a must to scale the 463 steps to the Brunelleschi-designed dome for unforgettable panoramas, and you can also climb the Giotto-designed, 82m campanile (8.30am-7.30pm). The 11th-century Romanesque baptistry has …
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Basilica di Santo Spirito
Behind a simple plaster facade lies one of Brunelleschi’s last and greatest works. Designed in 1434, the church’s light-flooded nave is lined by a series of semicircular chapels, while the colonnade of grey Corinthian columns lends a grandeur that is at once harmonious and severe. While a fire in 1471 destroyed much of the art, the church does harbour several masterpieces, including Filipino Lippi’s Madonna con il Bambino e Santi (Madonna with Child and Saints) in the Cappella Nerli in the right transept. And in the sacristy there’s a poignantly tender wooden crucifix attributed to Michelangelo with a rare depiction of Christ’s penis. Beneath the central dome, the a…
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E
Chiesa di San Miniato al Monte
Miniato was an early Christian martyr who, after his beheading in central Florence, walked up to this hillside spot with his severed head tucked under his arm. It’s easy to see why he chose this as his final resting place – the views across Florence are spectacular. So is the church itself. Begun in the early 11th century, it’s a marvel of Tuscan Romanesque with its geometric marble facade, Byzantine-style mosaics, floors paved in beautiful patterns, and duplex-style choir raised above an even older and more atmospheric crypt. The church also has frescoes by Agnolo Gaddi, a terracotta sculpture by Luca della Robbia and a free-standing chapel by Michelozzo. Come around 4.3…
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Fiesole
Nestled in the hilly valleys between the Arno and Mugnone rivers, beautiful Fiesole offers spectacular views of nearby Florence (8km to the south) and is a welcome fresh-air retreat from the city bustle. The city readily reveals its Etruscan, Roman and Renaissance past, and in summer it has attracted the likes of Boccaccio, Proust, Gertrude Stein and Frank Lloyd Wright.
Fiesole has a duomo, an impressive art museum and an archaeological site featuring an Etruscan temple and the remains of a Roman theatre and baths. It is especially popular as a picnic spot, and its fascinating winding streets offer atmospheric walks.
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Chiesa Russa Ortodossa
Rising incongruously above the smart palazzi north of the centre are five graceful onion domes belonging to the Russian Orthodox Church, built and decorated by Russian architects and artists in 1902. Florence was a popular 19th-century winter retreat for wealthy Russians - Tchaikovsky and Dostoevsky among them.
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Chiesa di SS Michele e Gaetano
Even if you're not big on Baroque, the harmonious interior of this rare, intact example of the style is worth a visit (especially if you want to escape the crowds). It was built in the 11th century and completely overhauled in the 17th century according to a design by Buontalenti.
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Rotonda del Brunelleschi
This neglected-looking hexagonal building was going to be the Rotonda di Santa Maria degli Angioli and, lined with chapels, would have been one of Brunelleschi's most original buildings had money not run out. The university now has offices here.
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