Shopping in Florence
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Santo Spirito Organic Market
This monthly market attracts artisans and organic farmers from around Tuscany, with stands devoted to fresh produce, hand-painted crockery, spices gathered from Chianti hillsides and much more.
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Pegna
A good selection of Tuscan and regional Italian specialities such as pâté, cheese, coffees, preserves and other stuff too good to be called just groceries can be found in this mini-supermarket.
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Officina de’ Tornabuoni
For natural pharmaceuticals and perfumes go to Officina de’ Tornabuoni.
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Dolce & Gabbana
Mostly interesting for accessories, it is really only worth coming here if you have your own transport, as it is close to The Mall. In itself, it does not warrant the effort from Florence if you are relying on public transport. Less than 1km south of Leccio, turn right and you arrive at a T-junction, on your left is a long building with no signs whatsoever: this is the Dolce &Gabbana outlet.
If you do want to do it by public transport, catch a train to Rignano sull'Arno, and from there it is about 4km south (see the directions for Fendi below).
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Archivi Fotografici Alinari
The world’s oldest photographic firm has, since its founding in 1852, amassed an archive of some 3.5 million photographs, ranging from daguerreotypes to digital images. The firm began by specialising in art and architecture, but has expanded to documentary-style photographs. The archives are open to the public, and you can still order prints of the original photographs just like Lucy Honeychurch in A Room with a View. The archives also form the nucleus of the collection at the nearby Museo Nazionale Alinari della Fotografia.
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Andreini
A century ago the statues and ceramics crafted here adorned the gardens of Tuscan nobility. Even today you'd need a lot of money to afford most of the work on show in this workshop-gallery. It is tempting to imagine that in this kind of place lies the heritage of the great Renaissance sculptors' workshops. For those eager to add a special touch to their houses, this is where to come for a fine copy of a David or Venus.
If nothing else, it is worth dropping by for a browse in this wonderful relic of another epoch.
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Mercato Centrale
Inside an iron-and-glass structure dating to 1874 lies the oldest and largest food market in Florence. Stalls on the 1st floor are devoted to fresh meat and fish as well as salumi (cold cuts), cheese, fresh pasta, olive oil, jam, truffle butter and more. For the pride of Tuscan produce, head upstairs to the mezzanine. You may have to negotiate through a confusion of makeshift stands of clothes and leathergoods to reach the market.
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Officine Panerai
This purveyor of watches has a special place in Italian hearts. The watches were first produced for Italy's navy divers in WWII. Nowadays the chunky nautical timepieces are collectors' items that can easily cost around €3000. Upstairs from the store is a small archive with WWII photos of Italian navy commandos and their deadly (often for their crew) little manned torpedoes.
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Spazio Multiculturale
Set up in an attempt to clear central Florence of some of its many street vendors, and put a lid on the conflict that had arisen between them, the police and local residents, this ethnic market on the banks of the Arno is now the place to come for an orderly browse of all those African carvings, North African fabrics and similar objects you might find in your local souq.
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La Botteghina
This unassuming little shop resembles dozens of others, but closer inspection reveals one of the city’s best purveyors of ceramics. Specialising in wares from nearby towns Montelupo and Deruta, the store only sells objects made entirely by hand, many of which sport particularly vivid golds and vermillions. Given the quality of the work, prices are quite reasonable.
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Stile Biologico
The sprouts of a new fashion for the 21st century, where classy organic-food lovers will feel at home, have blossomed in this Florence store. Cotton, linen, wool and other material are all guaranteed organically produced. In other words, the white, cream and beige threads that dominate have been untouched by pesticides. Buy right-on clothes with right-on attitude.
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Stefano Bemer
Men’s footwear doesn’t get better than this. The shop’s brochure justifies the extravagance this way: ‘Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten.’ Combining classic designs with a modern flair, Bemer produces both made-to-measure and prêt-à-porter models. Materials range from English suede to the skins of crocodiles, ostriches, stingrays and, yes, toads.
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Millesimi
Ring the bell and wait for staff to open Millesimi’s vast, wood-carved door, behind which lies perhaps the finest collection of wines in the city. The Franco-Italian couple who run the shop stock their cellars not just with the best Italian and French vintages, but also a distinctly un-snobbish selection of excellent labels for under €20 a bottle.
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Vannucchi
Via della Condotta was long known as the paper-vendors' street in Florence, and at this historic shop they know a thing or two about the business. Apart from quality writing materials (pens and other accessories) you can splash out on high-quality gift-wrapping paper, stationery and carta fiorentina (Florentine paper, with floral motifs).
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Filistrucchi
Need a wig or other theatrical devices? This has been the place to come for masks and theatre accessories since the early 18th century. In the 1720s, when it opened, it was a barber's and make-up shop in one, but gradually specialised in make-up and wigs for the theatre. It is one of Florence's oldest stores to have kept in constant business.
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Cavurotto Argenteria
The location has been home to a store since as early as the 18th century but this, one of the city's senior names in the silver business, has been going since 1919. Nothing much has changed since then, when the town's aristocracy and Jewish community converged here for their silver needs - even the Savoy royal family shopped here.
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MM
Leather goods in Florence may be of high quality, but designs can grow repetitive. Not so at MM (also known as Monaco Metropolitano), which offers bags, belts and bracelets in creatively natural shapes and textures. You can often watch craftspeople cutting, tooling and sewing the exquisite leathers right inside the shop’s door.
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Stockhouse Il Giglio
Cheap is a relative term in Florence, but you can pick up some interesting men's and women's fashion items here, and occasionally turn up some genuine bargains. Name labels can come in at a considerable discount. Florentines consider it one of the best stockhouses for picking up labelled items at off-the-back-of-a-lorry rates.
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Salvatore Ferragamo
Another grand Florentine name, Ferragamo gained fame by custom making shoes for famous feet - think Katherine Hepburn. Men can order made-to-measure shoes and choose the material, from crocodile skin to classic leather. The boutique also turns out clothes and accessories for the more mature and conservative fashion follower.
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Sbigoli Terrecotte
This family-owned operation churns out beautiful ceramics in the combination of rusticity and refinement that marks the classic Florence style. The shop has shelves and shelves of the stuff, while in back lies the workshop where the Sbigoli family produce their craft and also offer hands-on workshops for budding potters.
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Enrico Verità
This is one of the eight oldest watchmakers in all of Italy, and a wander around in here is a trip through time. Apart from selling a broad range of timepieces, from the most prestigious modern brands to antique items, the shop also specialises in repairs to just about any kind of ticker you care to bring in.
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Firenze of Papier Maché
There are masks for all occasions and sculpted icons for every taste at this atmospheric shop-cum-studio of 20 years standing. If you're travelling elsewhere in Italy you'll probably see rip-offs of Bijan's striking and clever creations but ask for one of his cards - it might be cheap but it's also original.
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Libreria Antiquaria Gonnelli
One of the temples to old books and manuscripts in Florence, the Gonnelli business has been going since 1875. Step inside and see the ancient volumes stacked on the shelves, precious manuscripts on show and knowing clients discussing rare texts in hushed tones. It is as though time has stood still.
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La Bottega del Cioccolato
Andrea Bianchini makes his prize-winning chocolate on the premises of his chic little side-street shop. Unafraid to experiment, he marries the finest chocolates with flavours such as mango with coriander and ginger, lemon with violet, rosemary with sea salt, and passionfruit with Szechuan pepper.
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