Tuscan restaurants in Florence
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Il Latini
You have two choices at this Florentine favourite: request a menu (as a tourist, you might not be offered one) or put yourself in the hands of the exuberant waiters and feast on a mixed antipasto of melt-in-your-mouth crostini and mixed Tuscan meats followed by a bowl of (indifferent) pasta and a hunk of roasted meat – rabbit, lamb, chicken or veal with white beans (the rabbit is particularly tasty). The wine and water flow and if you’re lucky you might get a complimentary plate of cantuccini (a type of biscuit) and glass of moscato (an Italian dessert wine) with the bill. There are two dinner seatings (7.30pm and 9pm), seating is shared and bookings are mandatory.
reviewed
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Trattoria Mario
Despite being in every guidebook, this jam-packed place retains its soul and allure with locals. A 100% family affair since opening in 1953, its chefs shop at the nearby Mercato Centrale and dish up tasty, dirt-cheap dishes with speed and skill. Get here right on the dot of noon to score a stool (tables are shared) and be aware that credit cards aren’t accepted.
reviewed
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Acqua Al 2
A long-standing favourite, this is a cheerful old eating den known for its assaggi di primi (mini portions of first courses for tasting). Although well populated with out-of-towners, it retains much of its atmosphere and still attracts Florentines.
reviewed
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Trattoria Coco Lezzone
A cheerful, homely spot with a white-tiled interior and photographs of famous customers. No credit cards, (bizarrely!...) no coffee, just a handwritten menu and very good food at this tiny kitchen-style trattoria, where unnecessary concessions simply don't need to be made. Ribollita (Tuscan soup; included in the excellent-value ‘Florence nostalgia' menu, €25 including 25cl of wine and mineral water) is the house speciality and Friday is fresh-fish day.
reviewed
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E
Osteria de'Benci
Deep-burgundy walls, a vaulted brick ceiling and a menu that makes no bones about what it cooks contribute to the relaxed, unpretentious air of this friendly place. Old favourites like honest slabs of carbonata di chianina (grilled Tuscan steak) – even more tender and succulent than the ubiquitous bistecca alla fiorentina – are (as the English-language menu so beautifully puts it) ‘SERVED BLOODY!'
reviewed
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Cafaggi
Not an awful lot has changed since Cafaggi was launched back in Mussolini's big year (1922, time of the great dictator's March on Rome). An old-style attention to service, a menu dominated by meat and a muted elegance (beige table linen, dark timber décor) make this a decent, if unsung, choice. Try some old favourites like cervello di vitella fritto con zucchini fritti (fried calf's brain and courgettes).
reviewed
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Trattoria Le Cave di Maiano
This place is not dissimilar, in terms of price, atmosphere and clientele, to La Capponcina. Tables are arranged across a variety of interconnected dining rooms and out on to terraces. Getting here without a car is tricky as the restaurant is actually in Maiano, a frazione (division) of Fiesole, and off the bus routes. You could try getting a taxi from central Fiesole.
reviewed
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Trattoria Da Benvenuto
Eating here, on the corner of Via dei Neri, is hardly an ambient experience, but the food is reliable and modestly priced. Mains include some Florentine favourites, including lampredotto and bistecca, while the pasta dishes are innovative, for example the rigatoni alla siciliana (with a slightly spicy Sicilian sauce). It is wise to reserve a table.
reviewed
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Trattoria Vittoria
A simple family-run place, this is one of the few Florentine locations where locals head to satisfy their marine desires with genuine fresh fish and seafood. It's a little out of the way, but if you are sick of Florentine steaks and dining among other foreigners, it is worth making the effort to wander here. Try the spiedino misto, a handsome tray of mixed seafood.
reviewed
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Al Tranvai
The menu could not be simpler at this rustic Tuscan eatery, known as The Tram and designed as such, where old men arrive at noon to bag their regular lunch spot. Sit nudged up with the locals, slurp house wine (€4 per 0.5L) and take your pick from the day's dishes chalked on the board. Since it's so deservedly popular, reserve your bench space ahead of time.
reviewed
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Trattoria La Casalinga
Family run and much loved by locals, this unpretentious and always busy place is one of the city’s cheapest trattorias. You’ll be relegated behind locals in the queue – it’s a fact of life and not worth protesting – with the eventual reward being hearty peasant dishes such as bollito misto con salsa verde (mixed boiled meats with green sauce).
reviewed
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Sostanza
This traditional Tuscan eatery is a good spot for bistecca alla fiorentina and the minestrone if you are not fussy about your surrounds. A no-nonsense approach dominates. Locals know the place as Il Troia - the (Male) Slut - because they say its 19th-century owner had the habit of touching up his guests. Don't worry, he's long gone.
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Osteria Vini e Cucina di Toscana
The old-time lettering on the windows invites you to peer into this welcoming restaurant, the dark timber tables of which are scattered about spaciously. An ever-changing daily menu, including some vegetarian options like melanzane alla parmigiana (eggplant slices oven-cooked with parmesan cheese), keeps you on your toes.
reviewed
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ì Tozzo di Pane
A young and friendly team run this simple neighbourhood place, where cool jazz warbles in the background. For starters, go for the zuppa toscana, a thick gruel of vegetables and barley. Although not to all tastes, the trippa alla fiorentina (tripe) follows on a treat. The small rear garden is a pleasant retreat.
reviewed
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O
Trattoria Napoleone
Carnivores will want to call by here for a filetto alla Napoleone, a handsome steak dressed in a vinegar and mustard sauce. The pizzas are also reasonable. A down side is that the outdoor dining area on those hot summer nights is in the middle of a car park. An upside is that you can order one in until 24:30!
reviewed
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Frescobaldi
The wine bar (run by one of Tuscany's name wine dynasties) spills out into a lovely courtyard where you can enjoy nibbles and superb wines by the glass. The restaurant is decked out in garish patterns and is less cosy, but the terrific seasonal and Tuscan fare will take your mind off it (if the wine doesn't first).
reviewed
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Da Stefano
Well known among Florentines for its fish dishes, this welcoming spot prides itself on using fresh produce imported from around the Mediterranean. Instead of the usual first and second courses you can opt for an abundant single course, mixing various kinds of fish and seafood. In summer head out in to the garden.
reviewed
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La Pentola d'Oro
Long a jealously-guarded secret among Florentine gourmands, this place is a one-off. Signor Alessi is a man of encyclopedic learning who spends much of his time studying medieval recipes and transforming them into the most remarkable meals. The menu is largely up to his whim. There is no sign outside.
reviewed
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Osteria Pepò
Pepò is a classy rendering of a Tuscan eatery and makes a pleasant stop for reasonable serves of Tuscan food with the occasional slight twist - instead of a tagliata di manzo (prime beef cooked medium in chunky slices), try their pollo (chicken) version, with melted parmesan.
reviewed
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L'brindellone
Surrounded by dangling garlic strands and old chianti bottles, this is a truly Tuscan spot with a slightly vegetarian bent too. Alongside such classics as bistecca di maiale (pork steak) you can get vegetable couscous. The house red is good and the atmosphere welcoming, with soft lighting.
reviewed
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Trattoria Cibrèo
Dine here and you’ll instantly understand why a queue gathers outside each evening before it opens. Once in, revel in top-notch Tuscan cuisine and personable service. Arrive before 7pm to snag one of the eight tables, and remember: no advance reservations, no credit cards, no pasta and no coffee.
reviewed
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La Capponcina
Up in the hills overlooking Florence from the northeast, this is one of the city's better-known restaurants. The kitchen is known in particular for its tagliata di manzo, succulent beef fillets sliced up and served on a bed of lettuce. Sitting in the garden is a true pleasure in summer.
reviewed
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Nanamuta
Walk in and take a left, past the open kitchen, into a spacious dining area with high ceiling, mezzanine level and cream-and-maroon décor. Some interesting dishes come your way here, like tortelloni di coniglio alla Vernaccia (pasta packets of rabbit cooked in white wine).
reviewed
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Trattoria Quattro Leoni
Long a byword for good, cheap Tuscan grub, many Florentines still mention this place with a satisfied smile. It has a pleasingly busy backstreet feel, but is far from a local secret nowadays. Meats dominate but you can opt for a handful of reasonable seafood and fish dishes too.
reviewed
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Vinandro
Here they have gone to some lengths to recreate a sense of the old Tuscan tavern, with long, timber fratina tables conducive to convivial eating. The menu consists of Tuscan staples and snacks, all washed down in tumblers of chianti. In summer you can sit outside too.
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