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Acqua Al 2
A long-standing favourite, this is a cheerful old eating den known for its assaggi di primi (mini portions of first courses for tasting). Although well populated with out-of-towners, it retains much of its atmosphere and still attracts Florentines.
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Al Tranvai
Not just another simple and atmospheric trattoria - OK, maybe it is - this place has a penchant for trippa alla fiorentina (tripe) and other grisly bits as well as the usual Tuscan fare. The combination is so popular with the locals that tables usually end up being shared.
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All'Antico Ristoro di Cambi
Run by the Cambi family since the 1940s - and barely changed since - this bustling and endearing trattoria is reliable for bistecca alla fiorentina, traditional Tuscan soups and seasonal salads, although they could do with a cushion or two on the hard wooden chairs.
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Alle Murate
A must for visiting foodies, this elegant and discreet restaurant combines the best of contemporary Italian cooking with a monumental wine list featuring labels from throughout Italy and a few from France. Dine under the exquisite medieval frescoes, among them the earliest known portrait of Dante.
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Angels
Sturdy stone columns prop up an exquisite timber ceiling in this cavernous restaurant, where the centuries-old structure is combined with a contemporary look. Grand picture windows open the place up to natural light, and the dark tables and white seats suggest hard modern angles. Elegant Tuscan faves are often accompanied, later in the evening, by some DJ-spun music.
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Antico Noè
It isn't pretty in this arcade but if you want to choose from almost 20 delicious, heaped and filling takeaway sandwiches from this Florentine institution, you'll have to run the gauntlet of the hobos. There's also reasonable food at the comfy cafe next door, where you can enjoy slow jazz and blues tunes with your meal.
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Baroncini
If you happen to be in the area, drop in to one of Florence's most popular gelaterie . Fresh fruit is used in the fruit-flavoured options, and there's also great yogurt and sorbetto al limone .
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Boccadama
Mobbed by tourists during the day, this place and its location are best appreciated in the evenings when the locals reclaim them. A recent upgrade has changed Boccadama from enoteca to full menu ristorante fare. The young staff are warm and friendly, and you can choose from regional wine labels.
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Cafaggi
Not an awful lot has changed since Cafaggi was launched back in Mussolini's big year (1922, time of the great dictator's March on Rome). An old-style attention to service, a menu dominated by meat and a muted elegance (beige table linen, dark timber décor) make this a decent, if unsung, choice. Try some old favourites like cervello di vitella fritto con zucchini fritti (fried calf's brain and courgettes).
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Casa del Vino
Step back in time at this traditional vinaio, one of the few examples of the genuine article left in Florence. Join market workers in the morning for a heart starter, or pop in around lunchtime for panini and other snacks over a traditional gottino (tumbler) of fine wine. Via dell'Ariento was lined by such wine shops from the mid-19th century. Here the original walnut furnishings remain in place, but instead of simple plonk the wine served is a choice of fine Tuscan drops.
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Da il Latini
If you're in a group (or feeling particularly sociable) this cavernous place is perfect for a rousing night of passable house wine and humungous portions of hearty, predominantly meaty fare beneath more dead pigs than you could shake a fork at. Come early, bring freezer bags and be prepared to queue as they don't take reservations.
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Da Stefano
Well known among Florentines for its fish dishes, this welcoming spot prides itself on using fresh produce imported from around the Mediterranean. Instead of the usual first and second courses you can opt for an abundant single course, mixing various kinds of fish and seafood. In summer head out in to the garden.
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Danny Rock
All right, the name doesn't sound promising but this bright and metallic US-style hang-out pulsates with young locals and foreigners most nights, and has a huge international menu incorporating better-than-expected crepes, huge salads, pizzas and burgers.
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Dolci e Dolcezze
This place claims its torta di cioccolato (chocolate cake) is the 'best in the world'. Hyperbole aside, it's damned good, made with fine Swiss and Belgian ingredients and creamy Maremma butter. There are no tables so it's takeaway.
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Edi House
Out on its own to the north of the city centre, this big bright place is a lighthouse for starving locals. They mainly come to feast on the broad variety of pizzas and focaccia (how about the one with gamberetti - tiny prawns - and pesto?), preferably on the pavement terrace in the warmer months.
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Enoteca Fuoriporta
After sunset at Piazzale Michelangelo, flop down the hill to this convivial enoteca in the shadow of the old city gate. Join the local clamour in the bar or set yourself on the pleasant outdoor terrace and explore the tasty menu (try the burata, a delicious clump of mozzarella from Puglia) and wash down with a series of wines by the glass.
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Enoteca Pinchiorri
Hallowed turf in Italian gastronomy, this Michelin-starred place occupies an elegant palazzo with a delightful inner courtyard. It's famous for its tiddly portions of astounding contemporary Tuscan fare and a cellar chock-a-block with 80,000 wines. Trust the tasting menus - Tuscan, seasonal and vegetarian - and the suave sommeliers.
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Frescobaldi
The wine bar (run by one of Tuscany's name wine dynasties) spills out into a lovely courtyard where you can enjoy nibbles and superb wines by the glass. The restaurant is decked out in garish patterns and is less cosy, but the terrific seasonal and Tuscan fare will take your mind off it (if the wine doesn't first).
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Gelateria Carabé
For the best and most varied granite in town, head to this Sicilian specialist. You can get the standard lemon and coffee versions of this slushy crushed ice 'drink', but why not try the melon, fig or almond flavours? They do plenty of other Sicilian sweets too, such as cannoli .
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Gelateria Vivoli
The peer pressure to try the gelati here, considered by many to be the best in Florence, is almost enough to put you off. It's relatively expensive, cups are teeny weeny, and the atmosphere is solemn, but all's forgiven when you taste the gelati , the flavours of which will be etched on your palate long after you've returned home.
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Gustavino
A young team have created this fresh dining idea, a modern enoteca -cum-restaurant, in which the menu covers all sorts of regional dishes, often with an unexpected twist. The tagliolini neri al riccio di mare con pesto (black pasta with sea anenome and pesto) is a good example. Metallic chairs and glass-topped tables lend a crisp air to the place.
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I Tarocchi
Most people drop by this place for the pizzas. In summer you can gobble one up on the pavement terrace (if you can find a seat, no easy feat), or squeeze in along the benches inside. Aside from the pizza, the kitchen churns out immensely filling pasta dishes and a handful of main courses - only those with an abyss opening up inside them will be capable of ingesting pasta and a main!
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I' Tozzo…di Pane
A young and friendly team run this simple neighbourhood place, where cool jazz warbles in the background. For starters, go for the zuppa toscana, a thick gruel of vegetables and barley. Although not to all tastes, the trippa alla fiorentina (tripe) follows on a treat. The small rear garden is a pleasant retreat.
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I' Vinaio
A sociable spot where you sit at close quarters over tiny square timber tables, this is a long-time favourite. Servings of such choices as penne all'ortolana (pasta and vegetables) or spaghetti alla carretiera (a spicy Sicilian sauce) are generous.
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Il Guscio
The meat here comes from a traditional local butcher, the fish is provided by Viareggio fishermen and the remaining ingredients are fresh from the market. A light hand in the kitchen produces feather-weight filetti di gallinella (a tangy white fish) or marshmallow-soft cuts of beef: it's your choice.
