Things to do in West Of Bologna
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Trattoria Corrieri
Eat on the patio under a leafy trellis, or in the labyrinth of rustically decorated interior rooms at this convivial trattoria, under the same ownership as Gallo d’Oro. Everything’s top quality –from the tris di tortelli (pasta pockets with three different stuffings) to the torta di cioccolato e pere (pear-chocolate cake) for dessert.
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Cathedral
One of the finest Romanesque churches in Italy, Modena’s Unesco World Heritage–listed cathedral is a thrilling example of 12th-century architecture. Dedicated to the city’s patron saint, St Geminianus, it was consecrated in 1184, 85 years after construction had begun. The facade is dominated by a huge Gothic rose window, actually a 13th-century addition, under which stands the main portal; to the sides, a series of vivid bas-reliefs depict scenes from Genesis. These are the work of the 12th-century sculptor Wiligelmo, who actually autographed his work, as did the building’s architect, Lanfranco (signing off in the main apse). Among Wiligelmo’s many vigorous carvings, bot…
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Trattoria da Omer
The stereotypical family-run trattoria, Omer's sets a lovely atmosphere for a meal of classic Modenese and Ferrarese food. Try the ossibuchi Estense, a regional take on the more traditional osso bucco (a veal stew) served with veggies and chopped almonds.
Like Bologna and Parma, Modena is an important gastronomic town. Its most famous product is aceto balsamico, considered the best in Italy by gourmets, but the centre also produces an excellent prosciutto crudo and zampone (stuffed pig's trotter). Tortellini is another speciality, as is Lambrusco, a lively, sparkling red, to be drunk chilled and with everything.
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Ristorante Pizzeria Uva d'Oro
A bright, bustling restaurant-cum-pizzeria, this cheerful spot serves plate-sized pizzas and uncomplicated pasta dishes. The complimentary glass of prosecco ensures a good mood, as does the tempting antipasto buffet and kitsch fruit 'n' veg décor.
Like Bologna and Parma, Modena is an important gastronomic town. Its most famous product is aceto balsamico, considered the best in Italy by gourmets, but the centre also produces an excellent prosciutto crudo and zampone (stuffed pig's trotter). Tortellini is another speciality, as is Lambrusco, a lively, sparkling red, to be drunk chilled and with everything.
reviewed
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Al Grottino
Informal and popular, this is a good bet for a filling bowl of spaghetti or a delicious pizza. If undecided between pasta and pizza, go for the pizza - it'll be big, well cooked and full of bubbling, creamy cheese.
Like Bologna and Parma, Modena is an important gastronomic town. Its most famous product is aceto balsamico, considered the best in Italy by gourmets, but the centre also produces an excellent prosciutto crudo and zampone (stuffed pig's trotter). Tortellini is another speciality, as is Lambrusco, a lively, sparkling red, to be drunk chilled and with everything.
reviewed
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Piazza del Duomo
From the outside, Parma’s Duomo, consecrated in 1106, is classic Lombard-Romanesque. Inside, the gilded pulpit and ornate lamp-holders all scream baroque bombast. But there are some genuine treasures here: up in the dome, Antonio Correggio’s Assunzione della Vergine (Assumption of the Virgin) is a kaleidoscopic swirl of cherubims and whirling angels, while down in the southern transept, Benedetto Antelami’s Deposizione (Descent from the Cross; 1178) relief is considered a masterpiece of its type.
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Palazzo Farnese
The vast Palazzo Farnese was started in 1558 but never fully completed. It now houses the Pinacoteca, an art gallery, and four minor museums of archaeology, carriages, Italian unification and, in the main one, the Museo Civico, the bizarre Etruscan Fegato di Piacenza, a sheep’s liver in bronze that was used for divining the future. Single entry to the archaeology museum costs €3, to the carriages and unification museums €2.50, and to the Pinacoteca and Museo Civico €5.
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Battistero
Antelami was responsible for the octagonal pink-marble battistero on the south side of the piazza del duomo. Combining Romanesque and Gothic styles, it features some of Antelami’s best work, including a celebrated set of figures representing the months, seasons and signs of the zodiac. Work began on the baptistry in 1196 but wasn’t completed until 1307 thanks to several interruptions, most notably when the supply of pink Verona marble ran out.
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fresh-produce market
Modena's fresh-produce market has its main entrance on Via Albinelli.
Like Bologna and Parma, Modena is an important gastronomic town. Its most famous product is aceto balsamico, considered the best in Italy by gourmets, but the centre also produces an excellent prosciutto crudo and zampone (stuffed pig's trotter). Tortellini is another speciality, as is Lambrusco, a lively, sparkling red, to be drunk chilled and with everything.
reviewed
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Galleria Nazionale
Tthe Galleria Nazionale displays Parma’s main art collection. Alongside works by local artists Correggio and Parmigianino, you’ll find paintings by Fra Angelico, Canaletto and El Greco. Before you get to the gallery, though, you’ll pass through the Teatro Farnese, a copy of Andrea Palladio’s Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza. Constructed entirely out of wood, it was almost completely rebuilt after being bombed in WWII.
reviewed
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Hostaria Giusti
Accessed via its attached deli, which dates to the 1600s, this unassuming-looking hostaria at the far end of a back alley is one of Modena’s most beloved eateries. It hosts only private parties at dinnertime, but at lunch you can sit on the back patio and savour regional specialities like cotechino fritto con zabaglione al lambrusco (fried Modena sausage with wine-flavoured egg custard).
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Musei Civici
To the north of Chiesa di San Prospero, the Musei Civici include Palazzo San Francesco, with its eclectic collection of mainly 18th-century art and archaeological discoveries, and the Galleria Parmeggiani, which boasts some worthwhile Italian, Flemish and Spanish paintings, as well as a heterogeneous collection of costumes, arms, jewellery and cutlery.
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Dal Teo
Bored with his day job, the enterprising Teo convinced his mum to help him open a pizzeria, using the same recipe he adored as a child. Mum is up at 4am making dough, and Teo takes care of the rest. Just across the bridge from Parma’s historic centre, it’s a popular hangout for evening beers and conversation, as well as for its incomparably delicious pizza crust – thick, light and crunchy all at once.
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Palazzo della Pilotta
Looming over Piazza della Pace's manicured lawns and modern fountains, the monumental Palazzo della Pilotta is hard to miss. Supposedly named after the Spanish ball game of pelota that was once played within its walls, it was originally built for the Farnese family between 1583 and 1622. Heavily bombed in WWII, it has since been largely rebuilt and today houses several museums.
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Cathedral of Parma
One of Parma's many visit-worthy churches, the cathedral (Duomo di Parma) has a deceptive face - its classically restrained Lombard-Romanesque façade hides a gilded confection of high baroque bombast. However, individual frescoes and sculptures rise above the frippery. Look up to the dome for a 16th-century masterwork - Correggio's Assumption of the Virgin.
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Ristorante da Danilo
Traditional food served in a warm, old-fashioned dining room is what you pay for at Danilo’s. Tuck into an antipasto of salami, pecorino cheese and fig marmalade before moving on to the house speciality – bollito misto (mixed boiled meat). Vegetarians can opt for risotto al radicchio trevigiano (with red chicory) or ai funghi (with mushrooms).
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Lombardi Museum
Of all Parma's rulers, Marie Louise of Austria is most beloved in her petite capitale. Napoleon's second wife, she embraced her little domain after brief tenure as Empress of France. Some of her belongings are in this recently revamped museum (Museo Glauco Lombardi), courtesy of an eponymous local collector. His miscellany illuminates Parma's long history.
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Farnese Theatre
Rebuilt to original plans after WWII bombing, this theatre (Teatro Farnese) is almost entirely made out of wood. The great Monteverdi, frustrated by the theatre's acoustic problems before its inaugural event in 1628, was forced to put his orchestra in a pit below the stage - long before 19th-century composer Wagner established this modern practice.
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Museum Palace
There are several galleries within the vast palace (Palazzo dei Musei). The Galleria Estense features most of the Este family collection. The Biblioteca Estense, essentially a research library, has a valuable collection of books, letters and manuscripts. Other displays include local finds from Palaeolithic times and medieval stonework including sarcophagi.
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Tricolour Flag Museum
The flag is the city's national claim to fame, and Reggio Emilia's city centre makes a lot of it. With interactive and traditional museum displays, the museum gives important and interesting background to the Napoleonic period. The nearby Sala del Tricolore - the room the flag was birthed in - takes prominent place in the beautiful, 14th-century town hall.
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Ducal Palace
Started in 1634 for the Este family, this heavy Baroque edifice is now Modena's military academy. Its scrubbed, fresh-faced, heel-clicking cadets in their trim hats and multicoloured uniforms look as if they've marched right off a chocolate box. Fancy-dress apart, they're considered Italy's best soldiers. Admire from the outside - not open to the public.
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Reggio Emilia Cathedral
The city's cathedral is a palimpsest of Reggio Emilia. It first appeared in the 9th century then had a major touch-up in the 15th century, as well as statue and artistic additions throughout the intervening years. Sections of Romanesque flooring (from the 3rd and 4th centuries) are prominent, as is the 12th century crypt. It is once again being restored.
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Gallo d'Oro
Vintage magazine covers and artfully placed wine bottles lend the Gallo d’Oro a very agreeable bistro feel. But it’s not all image: this is one of Parma’s best trattorias serving consistently good Emilian cuisine. For proof, dig into a bowl of delicious tortelli di erbetta (pasta stuffed with ricotta and herbs). Booking is recommended.
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Osteria dei Mascalzoni
Cosy inside and out, this restaurant features a beamed dining room and outdoor tables that take over the adjacent alleyway on warm summer evenings. The menu emphasises grilled meat, plus an excellent selection of Parma’s famous cheeses and pork products, including culatello,fiocchetto and of course prosciutto.
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Piazza Garibaldi
On the site of the ancient Roman forum, Piazza Garibaldi is a lively hub bisected by Parma's main east-west artery, Via Mazzini, and its continuation, Strada della Repubblica. On the square's north side, the façade of the 17th-century Palazzo del Governatore, these days municipal offices, sports a giant sundial, added in 1829.
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