Sights in West Of Bologna
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Cathedral
One of the finest Romanesque churches in Italy, Modena’s Unesco World Heritage–listed cathedral is a thrilling example of 12th-century architecture. Dedicated to the city’s patron saint, St Geminianus, it was consecrated in 1184, 85 years after construction had begun. The facade is dominated by a huge Gothic rose window, actually a 13th-century addition, under which stands the main portal; to the sides, a series of vivid bas-reliefs depict scenes from Genesis. These are the work of the 12th-century sculptor Wiligelmo, who actually autographed his work, as did the building’s architect, Lanfranco (signing off in the main apse). Among Wiligelmo’s many vigorous carvings, bot…
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Piazza del Duomo
From the outside, Parma’s Duomo, consecrated in 1106, is classic Lombard-Romanesque. Inside, the gilded pulpit and ornate lamp-holders all scream baroque bombast. But there are some genuine treasures here: up in the dome, Antonio Correggio’s Assunzione della Vergine (Assumption of the Virgin) is a kaleidoscopic swirl of cherubims and whirling angels, while down in the southern transept, Benedetto Antelami’s Deposizione (Descent from the Cross; 1178) relief is considered a masterpiece of its type.
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Palazzo Farnese
The vast Palazzo Farnese was started in 1558 but never fully completed. It now houses the Pinacoteca, an art gallery, and four minor museums of archaeology, carriages, Italian unification and, in the main one, the Museo Civico, the bizarre Etruscan Fegato di Piacenza, a sheep’s liver in bronze that was used for divining the future. Single entry to the archaeology museum costs €3, to the carriages and unification museums €2.50, and to the Pinacoteca and Museo Civico €5.
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Battistero
Antelami was responsible for the octagonal pink-marble battistero on the south side of the piazza del duomo. Combining Romanesque and Gothic styles, it features some of Antelami’s best work, including a celebrated set of figures representing the months, seasons and signs of the zodiac. Work began on the baptistry in 1196 but wasn’t completed until 1307 thanks to several interruptions, most notably when the supply of pink Verona marble ran out.
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Galleria Nazionale
Tthe Galleria Nazionale displays Parma’s main art collection. Alongside works by local artists Correggio and Parmigianino, you’ll find paintings by Fra Angelico, Canaletto and El Greco. Before you get to the gallery, though, you’ll pass through the Teatro Farnese, a copy of Andrea Palladio’s Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza. Constructed entirely out of wood, it was almost completely rebuilt after being bombed in WWII.
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Musei Civici
To the north of Chiesa di San Prospero, the Musei Civici include Palazzo San Francesco, with its eclectic collection of mainly 18th-century art and archaeological discoveries, and the Galleria Parmeggiani, which boasts some worthwhile Italian, Flemish and Spanish paintings, as well as a heterogeneous collection of costumes, arms, jewellery and cutlery.
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Palazzo della Pilotta
Looming over Piazza della Pace's manicured lawns and modern fountains, the monumental Palazzo della Pilotta is hard to miss. Supposedly named after the Spanish ball game of pelota that was once played within its walls, it was originally built for the Farnese family between 1583 and 1622. Heavily bombed in WWII, it has since been largely rebuilt and today houses several museums.
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Cathedral of Parma
One of Parma's many visit-worthy churches, the cathedral (Duomo di Parma) has a deceptive face - its classically restrained Lombard-Romanesque façade hides a gilded confection of high baroque bombast. However, individual frescoes and sculptures rise above the frippery. Look up to the dome for a 16th-century masterwork - Correggio's Assumption of the Virgin.
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Lombardi Museum
Of all Parma's rulers, Marie Louise of Austria is most beloved in her petite capitale. Napoleon's second wife, she embraced her little domain after brief tenure as Empress of France. Some of her belongings are in this recently revamped museum (Museo Glauco Lombardi), courtesy of an eponymous local collector. His miscellany illuminates Parma's long history.
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Farnese Theatre
Rebuilt to original plans after WWII bombing, this theatre (Teatro Farnese) is almost entirely made out of wood. The great Monteverdi, frustrated by the theatre's acoustic problems before its inaugural event in 1628, was forced to put his orchestra in a pit below the stage - long before 19th-century composer Wagner established this modern practice.
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Museum Palace
There are several galleries within the vast palace (Palazzo dei Musei). The Galleria Estense features most of the Este family collection. The Biblioteca Estense, essentially a research library, has a valuable collection of books, letters and manuscripts. Other displays include local finds from Palaeolithic times and medieval stonework including sarcophagi.
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Tricolour Flag Museum
The flag is the city's national claim to fame, and Reggio Emilia's city centre makes a lot of it. With interactive and traditional museum displays, the museum gives important and interesting background to the Napoleonic period. The nearby Sala del Tricolore - the room the flag was birthed in - takes prominent place in the beautiful, 14th-century town hall.
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Ducal Palace
Started in 1634 for the Este family, this heavy Baroque edifice is now Modena's military academy. Its scrubbed, fresh-faced, heel-clicking cadets in their trim hats and multicoloured uniforms look as if they've marched right off a chocolate box. Fancy-dress apart, they're considered Italy's best soldiers. Admire from the outside - not open to the public.
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Reggio Emilia Cathedral
The city's cathedral is a palimpsest of Reggio Emilia. It first appeared in the 9th century then had a major touch-up in the 15th century, as well as statue and artistic additions throughout the intervening years. Sections of Romanesque flooring (from the 3rd and 4th centuries) are prominent, as is the 12th century crypt. It is once again being restored.
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Piazza Garibaldi
On the site of the ancient Roman forum, Piazza Garibaldi is a lively hub bisected by Parma's main east-west artery, Via Mazzini, and its continuation, Strada della Repubblica. On the square's north side, the façade of the 17th-century Palazzo del Governatore, these days municipal offices, sports a giant sundial, added in 1829.
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Chiesa di Santa Maria della Steccata
Behind the Palazzo del Governatore in the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Steccata, you’ll find some of Parmigianino’s most extraordinary work, notably the stunning, if rather faded, frescoes on the arches above the altar. Many members of the ruling Farnese and Bourbon families lie buried here.
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Museo di Glauco Lombardi
The Museo di Glauco Lombardi has a miscellaneous collection of clothes, paintings, furniture and historical knick-knacks. Many of the exhibits once belonged to Marie-Louise of Austria, who ruled Parma following her husband Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo.
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Galleria Estense
The most interesting gallery in Palazzo dei Musei, the Galleria Estense features the Este family’s collection of northern Italian paintings from late medieval times to the 18th century. There are also some fine Flemish works and a canvas or two by Velázquez, Correggio and El Greco.
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Duomo
On Piazza Prampolini, Reggio’s 13th-century Duomo was first built in the Romanesque style but was given a comprehensive makeover 300 years later. Nowadays, virtually all that remains of the original is the upper half of the facade and, inside, the crypt.
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Palazzo Ducale
Dominating Piazza Roma, this heavy baroque edifice is home to one of Italy’s top military academies. It was started in 1634 and was the Este family residence for two centuries. Admission is only by guided tour. Contact ModenaTur to book.
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Castle of Canossa
The Castle of Canossa, built in 940 and then rebuilt in the 13th century, is where Matilda, countess of Canossa, reconciled the excommunicated Holy Roman Emperor Henry IV with Pope Gregory VII in 1077. Largely ruined, it has a small museum.
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Casa Natale di Toscanini
Casa Natale di Toscanini is the birthplace of Italy’s greatest modern conductor, Arturo Toscanini (1867–1957).
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Parco Ducale
Stretching along the west bank of the Parma, the formal gardens of the Parco Ducale were laid out in 1560 around the Farnese family’s Palazzo Ducale, which now serves as headquarters of the provincial carabinieri (military police).
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Cathedral
The 12th-century Lombard-Romanesque cathedral harmoniously blends white and pink marble, mellow sandstone and red brick. Inside, there are some magnificent 17th-century dome frescoes by Morazzone and Guercino.
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Biblioteca Estense
The Biblioteca Estense holds one of Italy’s most valuable collections of books, letters and manuscripts, including the celebrated Bibbia di Borso d’Este, a masterpiece of medieval illustration.
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