Things to do in Emilia Romagna & San Marino
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Pizzeria La Brace
Neither pizza nor fish are considered Bolognese specialities but that's what they do here, and what they do well. If a pizza doesn't appeal, the carpaccio di pesce spada (thin slices of raw swordfish) followed by a fritto misto (mixed fish fry) is a fine alternative. Hanging football shirts and portraits of Hollywood icons provide an unusual décor.
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Ca’ de Vèn
Yes, it’s touristy, but the atmosphere’s wonderful at this cavernous enoteca -cum-restaurant in a 15th-century palazzo with frescoed domes, vaulted brick ceilings and chequerboard marble floors. Regional specialities are complemented by an encyclopaedic wine list.
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Basilica di San Vitale
The Basilica di San Vitale was consecrated in 547 by Archbishop Massimiano. In contrast to the sombre exterior, its interior is awash with colour as the rich greens, golds and blues of the mosaics are bathed in soft yellow sunlight. The mosaics on the side and end walls represent scenes from the Old Testament: to the left, Abraham prepares to sacrifice Isaac in the presence of three angels, while the one on the right portrays the death of Abel and the offering of Melchizedek. Inside the chancel, two magnificent mosaics depict the Byzantine emperor Justinian with San Massimiano and a particularly solemn and expressive Empress Theodora, who was his consort.
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Al Brindisi
The oldest osteria in the world (according to Guinness), this atmospheric wine bar was already an established drinking den in 1435 – Titian drank here, Benvenuto Cellini dropped in on occasion and Copernicus studied in the room upstairs. Alongside the substantial wine list there’s a strong selection of grappas and whiskies, plus a full menu of pastas, mains and snacks. Fixed-price lunch menus start at €13.
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Drogheria della Rosa
With its wooden shelves, apothecaries’ jars and bottles, it’s not difficult to picture this place as the pharmacy that it once was. Nowadays it’s a charming, high-end trattoria, run by an affable English-speaking owner who will happily go through the day’s short, sweet menu of ultrafresh choices with you. Expect superbly prepared versions of Bolognese classics such as tortellini or steak with balsamic vinegar.
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Trattoria Corrieri
Eat on the patio under a leafy trellis, or in the labyrinth of rustically decorated interior rooms at this convivial trattoria, under the same ownership as Gallo d’Oro. Everything’s top quality –from the tris di tortelli (pasta pockets with three different stuffings) to the torta di cioccolato e pere (pear-chocolate cake) for dessert.
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Ristorante Pier & Gilberto Europe
Whatever you're paying here, rest assured that it's going on the food not the location. Once you've come in off the noisy road, you're in a world of silver candlesticks, cascading bouquets and seriously good food. Seafood is a speciality so play safe with spaghetti ai frusta di mare (spaghetti with seafood) followed by a fish grill.
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Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe
The brilliant star-spangled apse mosaic of the Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe is a must-see. The basilica, 5km southeast of the city centre, was built in the 6th century on the burial site of Ravenna’s patron saint, who converted the city to Christianity in the 2nd century. To get there take bus 4 or 44 to Classe.
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Trattoria Fantoni
To the west of the centre of Bologna, Via del Pratello is a long-standing bohemian hang-out packed with pubs, trattorias and bars. One of the best, Fantoni is a much-loved eatery dishing up classic Italian food at welcome prices. The atmosphere’s jovial and the decor is an agreeable clash of clutter and modern art.
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Private Tour: Gourmet Walking Tour of Bologna - Pasta, Mortadella and Chocolate
2 hours 30 minutes (Departs Bologna, Italy)
by Viator
Take a private guided walking tour through the medieval market of Bologna and explore the history, art and traditions of the city and its famous food. With only…Not LP reviewed
from USD$114.42 Advertisement
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La Sorbetteria Castiglione
Locals queue up day and night at this award-winning gelateria, which focuses all of its creative energy on 18 flavours. Taste the gianduia (chocolate-hazelnut ice cream with whole hazelnuts inside) and you’ll be an instant convert.
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Battistero degli Ariani
Behind the Basilica dello Spirito Santo, just off Via Diaz, is the Battistero degli Ariani, whose breath-taking dome mosaic depicts the baptism of Christ.
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Terzi
A refined cafe serving an unusual range of coffees, Terzi is a great spot to toy with a caffè con prugna e cannella (espresso with plum and cinnamon).
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Paolo Atti
For foodie buys head to the Quadrilatero, a haven of delis and speciality food shops, including Paolo Atti.
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Cinema Lumière
Northwest of the city centre; shows art-house films in their original version.
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Basilica di Santo Stefano
From Bologna's two leaning towers, head southeast along Via Santo Stefano for the Basilica di Santo Stefano, an atmospheric medieval religious complex. Originally there were seven churches – hence the basilica’s nickname Sette Chiese – but only four remain. Entry is via the 11th-century Chiesa del Crocefisso, which houses the bones of San Petronio and leads through to the Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro. This austere octagonal structure probably started life as a baptistry. Next door, the Cortile di Pilato is named after the central basin in which Pontius Pilate is said to have washed his hands after condemning Christ to death. In fact, it’s an 8th-century Lombard artefact. Bey…
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Pinacoteca Nazionale
The Pinacoteca Nazionale has a strong collection of works by Bolognese artists from the 14th century onwards, including a number of important canvases by the late-16th-century Carracci cousins Ludovico, Agostino and Annibale. Among the founding fathers of Italian baroque art, the Carraccis were deeply influenced by the Counter-Reformation sweeping through Italy in the latter half of the 16th century. Much of their work is religious and their imagery is often highly charged and emotional, designed to appeal to the piety of the viewing public. Works to look out for include Ludovico’s Madonna Bargellini, the Comunione di San Girolamo (Communion of St Jerome) by Agostino an…
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Cathedral
One of the finest Romanesque churches in Italy, Modena’s Unesco World Heritage–listed cathedral is a thrilling example of 12th-century architecture. Dedicated to the city’s patron saint, St Geminianus, it was consecrated in 1184, 85 years after construction had begun. The facade is dominated by a huge Gothic rose window, actually a 13th-century addition, under which stands the main portal; to the sides, a series of vivid bas-reliefs depict scenes from Genesis. These are the work of the 12th-century sculptor Wiligelmo, who actually autographed his work, as did the building’s architect, Lanfranco (signing off in the main apse). Among Wiligelmo’s many vigorous carvings, bot…
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La Rocca
The austere La Rocca, also known as the Guaita, or First Tower, is the oldest of the three defensive towers that overlook the city. Dating back to the 11th century, it was given a few licks and spits in the 19th and 20th centuries. The structure was chipped straight out of the stone surface without recourse to foundations, and promptly pressed into service as a guard tower and refuge post.
The entrance of the pentagonal structure displays the republic's baroque coat of arms, purloined from the Palazzo Publico. It also has a picture-book bell tower (as every fortress should) and, built a few years after the bell tower, a tower of penance - which always comes in handy when …
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Museo della Città
Rimini’s Museo della Città displays paintings upstairs, including a haunting Pietà by Giovanni Bellini and an altarpiece by Domenico Ghirlandaio. However, the museum’s centrepiece is the archaeological section on the ground floor. Spread over several rooms, with excellent bilingual (Italian-English) signage, are finds from two nearby Roman villas, including splendid mosaics, a rare and exquisite representation of fish rendered in coloured glass, and the world’s largest collection of Roman surgical instruments. You can walk through a life-size reconstruction of the surgeon’s offices, then visit the original excavation site across the street at the recently opened Domus…
reviewed
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Basilica Santuario della Madonna di San Luca
About 3.5km southwest of the centre of Bologna, the hilltop Basilica Santuario della Madonna di San Luca houses a representation of the Virgin Mary, supposedly painted by St Luke and transported from the Middle East to Bologna in the 12th century. The 18th-century sanctuary is connected to the city walls by the world’s longest portico, held aloft by 666 arches, beginning at Piazza di Porta Saragozza. Take bus 20 from the city centre to Villa Spada, from where you can continue by minibus (buy the €3.40 return ticket on board) to the sanctuary. Alternatively, continue one more stop on bus 20 to the Meloncello arch and walk the remaining 2km under the arches.
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Trattoria da Omer
The stereotypical family-run trattoria, Omer's sets a lovely atmosphere for a meal of classic Modenese and Ferrarese food. Try the ossibuchi Estense, a regional take on the more traditional osso bucco (a veal stew) served with veggies and chopped almonds.
Like Bologna and Parma, Modena is an important gastronomic town. Its most famous product is aceto balsamico, considered the best in Italy by gourmets, but the centre also produces an excellent prosciutto crudo and zampone (stuffed pig's trotter). Tortellini is another speciality, as is Lambrusco, a lively, sparkling red, to be drunk chilled and with everything.
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Basilica di San Vitale, Mausoleo di Galla Placidia & Museo Nazionale
The basilica was consecrated in 547 by Archbishop Massimiano. In contrast to the sombre exterior, its interior is awash with colour as the rich greens, golds and blues of the mosaics are bathed in soft yellow sunlight. The mosaics on the side and end walls represent scenes from the Old Testament: to the left, Abraham prepares to sacrifice Isaac in the presence of three angels, while the one on the right portrays the death of Abel and the offering of Melchizedek. Inside the chancel, two magnificent mosaics depict the Byzantine emperor Justinian with San Massimiano and a particularly solemn and expressive Empress Theodora, who was his consort.
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Ristorante Pizzeria Uva d'Oro
A bright, bustling restaurant-cum-pizzeria, this cheerful spot serves plate-sized pizzas and uncomplicated pasta dishes. The complimentary glass of prosecco ensures a good mood, as does the tempting antipasto buffet and kitsch fruit 'n' veg décor.
Like Bologna and Parma, Modena is an important gastronomic town. Its most famous product is aceto balsamico, considered the best in Italy by gourmets, but the centre also produces an excellent prosciutto crudo and zampone (stuffed pig's trotter). Tortellini is another speciality, as is Lambrusco, a lively, sparkling red, to be drunk chilled and with everything.
reviewed
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Basilica di San Petronio
Dominating the piazza’s southern flank, the Gothic Basilica di San Petronio ([tel]051 22 54 42; [hours]7.45am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm) is Bologna’s greatest church. Dedicated to the city’s patron saint and measuring 132m by 66m by 47m, it’s the world’s fifth-largest basilica. Surprisingly, though, it was never finished. Originally it was intended to be larger than St Peter’s in Rome, but in 1561, some 169 years after building had started, Pope Pius IV blocked construction by commissioning a new university on the basilica’s eastern flank. As a result the facade was never completed and if you walk along Via dell’Archiginnasio you can see semiconstructed apses poking out oddly.…
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