Things to do in Ravenna
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Ca’ de Vèn
Yes, it’s touristy, but the atmosphere’s wonderful at this cavernous enoteca -cum-restaurant in a 15th-century palazzo with frescoed domes, vaulted brick ceilings and chequerboard marble floors. Regional specialities are complemented by an encyclopaedic wine list.
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Basilica di San Vitale
The Basilica di San Vitale was consecrated in 547 by Archbishop Massimiano. In contrast to the sombre exterior, its interior is awash with colour as the rich greens, golds and blues of the mosaics are bathed in soft yellow sunlight. The mosaics on the side and end walls represent scenes from the Old Testament: to the left, Abraham prepares to sacrifice Isaac in the presence of three angels, while the one on the right portrays the death of Abel and the offering of Melchizedek. Inside the chancel, two magnificent mosaics depict the Byzantine emperor Justinian with San Massimiano and a particularly solemn and expressive Empress Theodora, who was his consort.
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Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe
The brilliant star-spangled apse mosaic of the Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe is a must-see. The basilica, 5km southeast of the city centre, was built in the 6th century on the burial site of Ravenna’s patron saint, who converted the city to Christianity in the 2nd century. To get there take bus 4 or 44 to Classe.
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Battistero degli Ariani
Behind the Basilica dello Spirito Santo, just off Via Diaz, is the Battistero degli Ariani, whose breath-taking dome mosaic depicts the baptism of Christ.
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Basilica di San Vitale, Mausoleo di Galla Placidia & Museo Nazionale
The basilica was consecrated in 547 by Archbishop Massimiano. In contrast to the sombre exterior, its interior is awash with colour as the rich greens, golds and blues of the mosaics are bathed in soft yellow sunlight. The mosaics on the side and end walls represent scenes from the Old Testament: to the left, Abraham prepares to sacrifice Isaac in the presence of three angels, while the one on the right portrays the death of Abel and the offering of Melchizedek. Inside the chancel, two magnificent mosaics depict the Byzantine emperor Justinian with San Massimiano and a particularly solemn and expressive Empress Theodora, who was his consort.
reviewed
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Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo
Originally built by the Goths in the 6th century, the basilica claims some of Ravenna’s most beautiful mosaics. On the right (south) wall, 26 white-robed martyrs are depicted heading towards Christ with his apostles, while on the left, there’s an equally expressive procession of virgins, bearing offerings to the Madonna. Spread along both walls are smaller panels depicting scenes from the life of Christ.
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Dante's Tomb
Italian literary legend Dante Alighieri spent the last 20 years of his life in Ravenna after being kicked out of Florence - to this day Florence supplies the oil for the lamps that burn in his tomb, as penance for exiling him. Dante's Divine Comedy was written in Ravenna, and today Dante's tomb is a reverent place with a wonderful mosaic floor.
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Tomba di Dante
Dante spent the last 19 years of his life in Ravenna, writing much of the Divine Comedy, after Florence expelled him in 1302. As a perpetual act of penance, Florence still supplies the oil for the lamp that burns continually in the Tomba di Dante. Another literary great, Lord Byron, briefly lived in a house on nearby Piazza di San Francesco.
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Ristorante Cappello
Under the hotel of the same name, this refined restaurant takes its food very seriously. The menu changes weekly, but seafood always figures prominently, in dishes such as strozzapreti con calamaretti, zucchine, fiori di zucca e zafferano (pasta with cuttlefish, courgettes, pumpkin flowers and saffron).
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Mausoleo di Teodorico
This two-storey mausoleum, built in 520, is a considerable feat of construction with its huge blocks of stone uncemented by any mortar, and 300-tonne dome. At the heart of the mausoleum is a Roman basin of porphyry that was recycled as a sarcophagus. Take bus 2 or 5 from the city centre.
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Tomba di Dante
Dante spent the last 19 years of his life in Ravenna, writing much of the Divine Comedy here, after Florence expelled him in 1302. As a perpetual act of penance, Florence still supplies the oil for the lamp that burns continually in his tomb.
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Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra
To the west, not far from the Basilica di San Vitale, the 6th-century floor mosaics at the Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra were unearthed in the early 1990s. Of considerable artistic merit, they are decorated with geometric and floral designs.
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Battistero Neoniano
The domed roof of the Battistero Neoniano holds an impressive set of mosaics depicting the apostles and the baptism of Christ. Thought to have started life as a Roman bathhouse, it was converted into a baptistry in the 5th century.
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Naif
Any pizzeria that locals go to for their takeaways is good news. And locals go to Naif, a bright, brash place on the eastern side of the rail tracks. As well as pizza, there's plenty more to choose from on what must be Ravenna's longest menu.
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Museo Nazionale
The Museo Nazionale is housed in the cloisters of a former Benedictine monastery. There’s a wealth of pottery, bronzes, icons and vestments, plus more Madonna and Child portraits than you can shake a halo at.
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Museo Arcivescovile
The tiny Museo Arcivescovile is well worth a visit for its fine collection of mosaics and an exquisite 6th-century ivory throne.
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Babaleus
Students come for the €11 ‘pizza, drink and movie’ special (the movie’s at the nearby Cinema Astoria), but this relaxed, informal place in the centre also serves up a full menu of pasta, meat and fish.
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Locanda del Melarancio
A charming 16th-century stone and brick building enlivened with bold red walls forms the backdrop for this smooth, looks-conscious bar.
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Bizantino
A busy self-service restaurant inside the covered market, Bizantino is ideal for a quick, economical lunchtime bite.
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Cabiria
A wine bar that hums like a Friday-night pub, Cabiria is a local favourite, popular with the 30-something crowd.
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Cooperativa Sociale la Formica
Just outside Ravenna’s train station, Cooperativa Sociale la Formica rents out bikes.
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Covered Market
Self-caterers and sandwich-fillers should load up at Ravenna’s covered market.
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Mosaic Art School
Runs mosaic courses catering to everyone from beginners to artists.
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Gruppo Mosaicisti
Runs mosaic courses catering to everyone from beginners to artists.
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