Things to do in Ferrara
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Al Brindisi
The oldest osteria in the world (according to Guinness), this atmospheric wine bar was already an established drinking den in 1435 – Titian drank here, Benvenuto Cellini dropped in on occasion and Copernicus studied in the room upstairs. Alongside the substantial wine list there’s a strong selection of grappas and whiskies, plus a full menu of pastas, mains and snacks. Fixed-price lunch menus start at €13.
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Don Giovanni
Open only for dinner, this highly acclaimed eatery specialises in fresh-caught fish from the Adriatic, vegetables harvested from the restaurant’s own garden, eight varieties of bread baked daily and a wine list featuring over 600 Italian and international labels. The menu is an imaginative feast of unconventional concoctions such as tortelli con faraona allo zabaione di parmigiano e prosciutto croccante (guinea fowl–stuffed pasta in a custard of Parmesan and crunchy ham) or anguilla arrostita con finferli e emulsione all’alloro (roast eel with chanterelle mushrooms in bay-leaf emulsion).
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Pizzeria Orsucci
For a slice of Ferrarese culinary history, head to this hole-in-the-wall pizzeria, run by the same family since 1936. Choices are simple: do you want your pizza margherita small or medium-sized, with or without anchovies? Aside from draught beer, the only other menu item is padella di ceci (a chickpea-flour treat cooked in the wood-fired oven). If you ask, the amiable proprietor Giulio can tell you a story or two about the news clippings and photos that cover the walls, documenting Orsucci’s numerous awards and history as a film set.
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Duomo
The outstanding feature of the pink-and-white 12th-century Duomo is its three-tiered marble facade, combining Romanesque and Gothic styles on the lower and upper tiers respectively. Much of the upper level is a graphic representation of the Final Judgment and heaven and hell (notice the four figures clambering out of their coffins). Astride a pair of handsome lions at the base squats an oddly secular duo, mouths agape at the effort of holding it all up.
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Palazzo Municipale
Linked to the castle by an elevated passageway, the 13th-century crenellated Palazzo Municipale was the Este family home until they moved next door to the castle in the late 15th century. Nowadays, it’s largely occupied by administrative offices but you can wander around its twin courtyards. The entrance is watched over by copper statues of Nicolò III and his less-wayward son Borso – they’re 20th-century copies but nonetheless imposing.
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Trattoria il Mandolino
The mandolin after which this charming trattoria is named is just one of the musical instruments adorning the cluttered walls. In tune with the old-fashioned feel, the food is traditional Ferrarese, so expect plenty of meat, cheese and salami. Signature dishes include formaggio con marmellata di cipolla (cheese with onion marmalade) and the classic salama da sugo.
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Antica Trattoria Volano
A local favourite, this historic trattoria has been serving traditional Ferrarese food for more than 30 years. Menu stalwarts include the traditional cappellacci di zucca con ragù and salama da sugo served with mashed potato. For fish lovers, anguilla (eel) is an adventurous choice. In summer, relax in the attractive rear garden.
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Pinacoteca Nazionale
Named after the diamond-shaped ashlar stones on its facade, the Palazzo dei Diamanti was built for Sigismondo d’Este late in the 15th century. Regarded as the family’s grandest palazzo, it is now home to the Pinacoteca Nazionale and its interesting collection of paintings from the Ferrarese and Bolognese schools.
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Quel Fantastico Giovedì
For fashionable food in a cool, bistro-chic setting, book here. Seafood specialities include baccalà mantecato con crema di peperoni dolci e polenta (Venetian-style codfish with sweet pepper-polenta cream), while the mouth-watering dessert menu features sorbetto di mela verde profumato al moscato (wine-scented green apple sorbet).
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Castello Estense
Complete with moat and drawbridge, Ferrara’s towering castle, Castello Estense was commissioned by Nicolò II d’Este in 1385. Initially it was intended to protect him and his family from the town’s irate citizenry, who were up in arms over tax increases, but in the late 15th century it became the family’s permanent residence.
Although sections are now used as government offices, a few rooms, including the royal suites, are open for viewing. Highlights are the Sala dei Giganti (Giants’ Room) and Salone dei Giochi (Games Salon), the Cappella di Renée de France and the claustrophobic dungeon. It was here in 1425 that Duke Nicolò III d’Este had his young second wife, …
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Balebùste
Sequester yourself under the brick arches in the cosy interior rooms, or mingle with the masses on cobblestoned Via Vittoria at this lively corner bar. Although wine holds centre stage here, it’s worth sticking around for the wide-ranging food menu, featuring traditional Ferrarese dishes and daily chef’s specials.
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Il Ciclone
A laid-back restaurant-cum-pizzeria that plays Verve on the stereo and serves a tempting selection of pastas, pizzas, meats and fish. If you're not going to have pizza - and the pizzas here are excellent - the spaghetti allo scoglio (spaghetti with seafood) makes for a tasty meal.
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Palazzo Schifanoia
Ferrara’s most famous frescoes are in the Este’s 14th-century pleasure palace, Palazzo Schifanoia. In the Salone dei Mesi, Francesco del Cossa’s 15th-century frescoes depicting the months and seasons are considered among the best examples of their type in Italy.
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Il Ristorantino di Colomba
For healthy helpings of simple, no-nonsense food, this modest centro storico trattoria is a reliable choice. You won't find any great novelties but the food is tasty and the Sangiovese house red a fine tipple. Soft lighting and muted jazz lend a relaxed low-key feel.
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Museo Archeologico Nazionale
You’ll find Etruscan artefacts, along with an impressive selection of Attic vases, in Palazzo di Ludovico il Moro at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. Many finds came from the Etruscan town of Spina, near modern-day Comacchio.
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Museo della Cattedrale
The Museo della Cattedrale houses various artefacts from the cathedral, including a serene Madonna by Jacopo della Quercia, a couple of vigorous Cosimo Tura canvases, and some witty bas-reliefs illustrating the months of the year.
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Osteria del Ghetto
This sweet little eatery in the heart of Ferrara’s old Jewish quarter is a fab place to feast on traditional favourites like cappellacci di zucca or salama da sugo con purea di patate (stewed pork sausage with mashed potatoes).
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Casa Romei
The Renaissance Casa Romei is where Lucrezia Borgia spent much of her time in Ferrara. The austere brick exterior hides a peaceful inner patio and, on the 1st floor, a 16th-century apartment preserved in its original state.
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Museo del Risorgimento e della Resistenza
The small Museo del Risorgimento e della Resistenza exhibits documents, proclamations and posters from the Italian unification movement and WWII, as well as numerous uniforms, guns and hand grenades.
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La Borsa
In the grand central courtyard of a historic palazzo, this wine bar offers snacks and simpler meals of the same superb quality as its adjacent sister restaurant Don Giovanni, but at much lower prices.
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Pasticceria Leon d'Oro
Opposite the cathedral, Leon d'Oro has a tempting array of sweet and savoury snacks and outdoor seating on Palazzo Municipale's internal courtyard.
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Fusion
You'll need to dress up unless you want to be outsmarted by the slick designer furniture and sexy, self-conscious drinkers at this chic wine bar.
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Museo Lapidario
The Museo Lapidario has a small, undocumented collection of Roman and Etruscan stele, tombs and inscriptions.
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Il Messisbugo
Despite a name that suggests Tex-Mex tack, this is actually a cool brick-vaulted bar, popular with students and bohemians.
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Palazzina di Marfisa d'Este
The Palazzina di Marfisa d’Este reveals ornate 16th-century decorations and a shady garden.
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