Things to do in East Of Bologna
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Ca’ de Vèn
Yes, it’s touristy, but the atmosphere’s wonderful at this cavernous enoteca -cum-restaurant in a 15th-century palazzo with frescoed domes, vaulted brick ceilings and chequerboard marble floors. Regional specialities are complemented by an encyclopaedic wine list.
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Basilica di San Vitale
The Basilica di San Vitale was consecrated in 547 by Archbishop Massimiano. In contrast to the sombre exterior, its interior is awash with colour as the rich greens, golds and blues of the mosaics are bathed in soft yellow sunlight. The mosaics on the side and end walls represent scenes from the Old Testament: to the left, Abraham prepares to sacrifice Isaac in the presence of three angels, while the one on the right portrays the death of Abel and the offering of Melchizedek. Inside the chancel, two magnificent mosaics depict the Byzantine emperor Justinian with San Massimiano and a particularly solemn and expressive Empress Theodora, who was his consort.
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Al Brindisi
The oldest osteria in the world (according to Guinness), this atmospheric wine bar was already an established drinking den in 1435 – Titian drank here, Benvenuto Cellini dropped in on occasion and Copernicus studied in the room upstairs. Alongside the substantial wine list there’s a strong selection of grappas and whiskies, plus a full menu of pastas, mains and snacks. Fixed-price lunch menus start at €13.
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Ristorante Pier & Gilberto Europe
Whatever you're paying here, rest assured that it's going on the food not the location. Once you've come in off the noisy road, you're in a world of silver candlesticks, cascading bouquets and seriously good food. Seafood is a speciality so play safe with spaghetti ai frusta di mare (spaghetti with seafood) followed by a fish grill.
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Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe
The brilliant star-spangled apse mosaic of the Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe is a must-see. The basilica, 5km southeast of the city centre, was built in the 6th century on the burial site of Ravenna’s patron saint, who converted the city to Christianity in the 2nd century. To get there take bus 4 or 44 to Classe.
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Battistero degli Ariani
Behind the Basilica dello Spirito Santo, just off Via Diaz, is the Battistero degli Ariani, whose breath-taking dome mosaic depicts the baptism of Christ.
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Museo della Città
Rimini’s Museo della Città displays paintings upstairs, including a haunting Pietà by Giovanni Bellini and an altarpiece by Domenico Ghirlandaio. However, the museum’s centrepiece is the archaeological section on the ground floor. Spread over several rooms, with excellent bilingual (Italian-English) signage, are finds from two nearby Roman villas, including splendid mosaics, a rare and exquisite representation of fish rendered in coloured glass, and the world’s largest collection of Roman surgical instruments. You can walk through a life-size reconstruction of the surgeon’s offices, then visit the original excavation site across the street at the recently opened Domus…
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Basilica di San Vitale, Mausoleo di Galla Placidia & Museo Nazionale
The basilica was consecrated in 547 by Archbishop Massimiano. In contrast to the sombre exterior, its interior is awash with colour as the rich greens, golds and blues of the mosaics are bathed in soft yellow sunlight. The mosaics on the side and end walls represent scenes from the Old Testament: to the left, Abraham prepares to sacrifice Isaac in the presence of three angels, while the one on the right portrays the death of Abel and the offering of Melchizedek. Inside the chancel, two magnificent mosaics depict the Byzantine emperor Justinian with San Massimiano and a particularly solemn and expressive Empress Theodora, who was his consort.
reviewed
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Don Giovanni
Open only for dinner, this highly acclaimed eatery specialises in fresh-caught fish from the Adriatic, vegetables harvested from the restaurant’s own garden, eight varieties of bread baked daily and a wine list featuring over 600 Italian and international labels. The menu is an imaginative feast of unconventional concoctions such as tortelli con faraona allo zabaione di parmigiano e prosciutto croccante (guinea fowl–stuffed pasta in a custard of Parmesan and crunchy ham) or anguilla arrostita con finferli e emulsione all’alloro (roast eel with chanterelle mushrooms in bay-leaf emulsion).
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Pizzeria Orsucci
For a slice of Ferrarese culinary history, head to this hole-in-the-wall pizzeria, run by the same family since 1936. Choices are simple: do you want your pizza margherita small or medium-sized, with or without anchovies? Aside from draught beer, the only other menu item is padella di ceci (a chickpea-flour treat cooked in the wood-fired oven). If you ask, the amiable proprietor Giulio can tell you a story or two about the news clippings and photos that cover the walls, documenting Orsucci’s numerous awards and history as a film set.
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Tempio Malatestiano
Rimini’s grandest monument is its cathedral, the Tempio Malatestiano. Dedicated to St Francis, it was transformed in the 15th century to house the tomb of Isotta degli Atti, the beloved mistress of Sigismondo Malatesta. Sigismondo, a member of the ruling Malatesta clan, was something of a rogue: Pope Pius II, himself no angel, burned Sigismondo’s effigy in Rome and condemned him to hell for an impressive litany of sins that included rape, murder, incest, adultery and severe oppression of the people.
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Duomo
The outstanding feature of the pink-and-white 12th-century Duomo is its three-tiered marble facade, combining Romanesque and Gothic styles on the lower and upper tiers respectively. Much of the upper level is a graphic representation of the Final Judgment and heaven and hell (notice the four figures clambering out of their coffins). Astride a pair of handsome lions at the base squats an oddly secular duo, mouths agape at the effort of holding it all up.
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Palazzo Municipale
Linked to the castle by an elevated passageway, the 13th-century crenellated Palazzo Municipale was the Este family home until they moved next door to the castle in the late 15th century. Nowadays, it’s largely occupied by administrative offices but you can wander around its twin courtyards. The entrance is watched over by copper statues of Nicolò III and his less-wayward son Borso – they’re 20th-century copies but nonetheless imposing.
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Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo
Originally built by the Goths in the 6th century, the basilica claims some of Ravenna’s most beautiful mosaics. On the right (south) wall, 26 white-robed martyrs are depicted heading towards Christ with his apostles, while on the left, there’s an equally expressive procession of virgins, bearing offerings to the Madonna. Spread along both walls are smaller panels depicting scenes from the life of Christ.
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Casina del Bosco
For fast food, nothing beats a piadina, a toasted half-moon of unleavened bread with a savoury filling – Romagna’s retort to the wrap. This immensely popular eatery has built its clientele over 30 years by keeping things simple: piadine, salads, beer, wine and ice-cold desserts. Bask on the patio with a draught hefeweizen (wheat beer) while you wait for the guys at the grill to do their thing.
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Trattoria il Mandolino
The mandolin after which this charming trattoria is named is just one of the musical instruments adorning the cluttered walls. In tune with the old-fashioned feel, the food is traditional Ferrarese, so expect plenty of meat, cheese and salami. Signature dishes include formaggio con marmellata di cipolla (cheese with onion marmalade) and the classic salama da sugo.
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Antica Trattoria Volano
A local favourite, this historic trattoria has been serving traditional Ferrarese food for more than 30 years. Menu stalwarts include the traditional cappellacci di zucca con ragù and salama da sugo served with mashed potato. For fish lovers, anguilla (eel) is an adventurous choice. In summer, relax in the attractive rear garden.
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Pinacoteca Nazionale
Named after the diamond-shaped ashlar stones on its facade, the Palazzo dei Diamanti was built for Sigismondo d’Este late in the 15th century. Regarded as the family’s grandest palazzo, it is now home to the Pinacoteca Nazionale and its interesting collection of paintings from the Ferrarese and Bolognese schools.
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Dante's Tomb
Italian literary legend Dante Alighieri spent the last 20 years of his life in Ravenna after being kicked out of Florence - to this day Florence supplies the oil for the lamps that burn in his tomb, as penance for exiling him. Dante's Divine Comedy was written in Ravenna, and today Dante's tomb is a reverent place with a wonderful mosaic floor.
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Tomba di Dante
Dante spent the last 19 years of his life in Ravenna, writing much of the Divine Comedy, after Florence expelled him in 1302. As a perpetual act of penance, Florence still supplies the oil for the lamp that burns continually in the Tomba di Dante. Another literary great, Lord Byron, briefly lived in a house on nearby Piazza di San Francesco.
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Quel Fantastico Giovedì
For fashionable food in a cool, bistro-chic setting, book here. Seafood specialities include baccalà mantecato con crema di peperoni dolci e polenta (Venetian-style codfish with sweet pepper-polenta cream), while the mouth-watering dessert menu features sorbetto di mela verde profumato al moscato (wine-scented green apple sorbet).
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Castello Estense
Complete with moat and drawbridge, Ferrara’s towering castle, Castello Estense was commissioned by Nicolò II d’Este in 1385. Initially it was intended to protect him and his family from the town’s irate citizenry, who were up in arms over tax increases, but in the late 15th century it became the family’s permanent residence.
Although sections are now used as government offices, a few rooms, including the royal suites, are open for viewing. Highlights are the Sala dei Giganti (Giants’ Room) and Salone dei Giochi (Games Salon), the Cappella di Renée de France and the claustrophobic dungeon. It was here in 1425 that Duke Nicolò III d’Este had his young second wife, …
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Osteria i Teatini
Described by its owner as a ‘free people’s place’, this artsy, atmospheric joint is part restaurant, part bar and part alternative nightspot, with eclectic jazz-classical DJ sets on Friday nights and live music on Saturdays. Drink in the wonderful vaulted stone cellar or eat on the outdoor deck in the leafy square outside.
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Osteria Dë Börg
A homely osteria in the old fishing quarter, this place is what eating in Italy is all about: simple, honest food made with local ingredients and served in unpretentious surroundings. Second courses revolve around meat, from stuffed rabbit to steaks grilled on an open fire and seasoned with rosemary and sea salt.
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Balebùste
Sequester yourself under the brick arches in the cosy interior rooms, or mingle with the masses on cobblestoned Via Vittoria at this lively corner bar. Although wine holds centre stage here, it’s worth sticking around for the wide-ranging food menu, featuring traditional Ferrarese dishes and daily chef’s specials.
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